If someone thinks that in the manufacture of batik the most difficult thing is to apply paint to the fabric, then he is mistaken - this is the easiest and most interesting of the entire process of making the work. And the whole process consists of several successive stages. And not all of them are very interesting. Judge for yourself.
Stage one. We stretch the fabric.
Framework. They come in a variety of sizes, from small to large, and even simple embroidery hoops will work. There is only one principle, the fabric should be fixed to the frame in such a way that the entire space for drawing is on weight. That is, the frame should have a profile, in other words, a border around the edges, as in the photo. And this side with a border will be the front side of the work.
I have several frames, the largest of them is 135x135 cm, I use it for painting clothes, I use others, which are smaller, for making scarves and pictures (50x100), for a scarf I pull it in two steps and it turns out to be longer than a meter, and there are small ones for pictures.
Reusable frames!
We draw on them, but finished work we will not implement them on them, otherwise it will be very expensive. But more on that later, now we are just stretching the fabric.
If you are a beginner batik performer, then one frame is enough for you, or you can try it on a large hoop.
I use the usual stationery buttons. They pierce the fabric and leave marks. Therefore, in those places where the fabric will not be subsequently cut, clips must be used. You will need this only in the case of making a painting that exceeds the size of your frame. For example, when I paint a long sun skirt, it doesn’t even fit on my large frame 135 x 135 cm, and I paint it in parts in four steps, or in two steps, depending on the length of the product. I use simple stationery paper clips. Special ones are also sold in stores for artists, they are probably very good and comfortable, but I have not tried them.
With these simple buttons, I prick the fabric around the perimeter of the frame from the end, pushing the buttons, or with reverse side, as you wish, but the fabric should be stretched with your hands tight enough so that it does not sag on the frame.
Now fabric.
All recommendations are written in defense of natural silk. This is right. Natural silk is a beautiful expensive fabric, etc. I use it only for clothes and only to order!
I use any thin fabric! Any synthetics, cotton, linen, satin, anything, and what is inexpensive. Now the quality of synthetic fabrics is such that polyester, by its properties, can be stored longer than natural silk. For clothes, of course, it does not have all the properties natural fibers, but it’s just right for pictures, and it’s quite enough for scarves, and it’s also good for a skirt.
All fabrics perceive reserve and paint in different ways. On some it spreads instantly, on others you are tormented to smear, but any one can eventually be decorated. For beginners, I recommend a fabric called crepe. it best option, on which the reserve fits well, and the paint spreads well to the contours. I recommend a fabric called crepe. This is the best option, on which the reserve fits well, and the paint spreads well to the contours.
Stage two. Picture.
So we got to the reserve. The fabric is stretched over a frame, and a pattern needs to be applied to it.
Remove the backing from the paper, set it aside, it may still be needed.
Since all normal people are normal people, I do not recommend taking an example from me and applying a reserve drawing to the fabric immediately without first drawing with a pencil on paper.
Therefore, we take a sheet of paper of such a size that we should get a finished drawing. And draw a drawing with a pencil on this sheet. Then we put this pattern under the fabric so that it shines through it, fasten it in several places with pins so that it does not move out, and draw around the contour. Through crepe, chiffon, and other fabrics, the pattern will shine through. And through thin cotton will be. And dense fabrics are somewhat more difficult, for beginners it is better to try on thin ones. For specialists: we put a directional light lamp under the frame with a dense fabric and reduce the pattern.
Now we have fabric with a pattern on the frame. And we will outline this drawing with a reserve.
Reserve- This is a composition that does not allow the paint to spread over the fabric. We will make cold batik, because it is easier and more accessible to everyone.
A small digression for information: There are several types of batik - hot, cold, nodular, free painting. What is the difference between cold batik and hot batik?
In engineering Cold batik
the role of the reserve is performed by a special fixer, called the reserve (reserving composition, based on paraffin, gasoline. It can be prepared at home, but there are ready-made reserves. There are both colored and colorless reserves. The cold reserve is applied either with special tools - glass tubes with reservoir, or reserves are used in tubes that are equipped with an elongated spout.
Wax is used as a reserve in hot batik. Wax is applied using a special tool called chanting. Waxed areas do not absorb paint and also limit its spread. hot batik called hot because the wax is used in a "hot" molten form. This method is mainly used for dyeing cotton fabric. Upon completion of work, wax is removed from the surface of the fabric. The effect of painting is achieved through the layer-by-layer application of paint.
Nodular- this is when the fabric is dyed with aniline dyes, and before dyeing it is folded in a certain way, tied with knots.
free painting- this is what anyone wants who is in what much and dyes and reserve and oil paint all in a bunch, the artists get wonderful original unique results.
We continue. There are both colored and colorless reserves. They are easier to buy than to cook. It was once Soviet time, and everything was a terrible shortage, and we interfered with gasoline and paraffin. And now everything is simple - I went and bought a jar of colorless reserve for 40 - 50 rubles. If you want color, please, too, although I make color reserves by adding a small amount of oil paint to the colorless. You can get any color, if it turned out thick, then it is diluted with gasoline purified(for lighters). But this is my whim, because there is a large selection of all colors on sale. They are sold in jars and tubes.
From jars they are applied to the fabric with a drawing pen - glass tubes with a reservoir, from tubes they are simply squeezed out immediately onto the fabric. The reserve is drawn with a continuous line. The principle is this: Better several times in one place than never! If you are the first time, then take a tinted or colored reserve, it is better visible than a colorless one.
For pictures, you can use any reserves. And for clothes, those in jars are better, because beautiful volumetric reserves from tubes can peel off when washing the product. In addition, those that are applied with a drawing pen are liquid, they soak the fabric through and through, and the likelihood of further paint leakage is minimal. And from a tube, the reserve is usually voluminous and beautiful, it is easier to apply, but it is more difficult to control the through penetration of the fabric. There are, of course, ways: for example, you can check with a soapy solution, but for beginners I recommend applying the contour with a liquid reserve, and with a volume from a tube, if you want, circle the contours at the end of the work, over the applied paint.
The contours of the picture must be closed!
From the reserve to the reserve, the paint will spread, and it will fill the entire surface enclosed for it. If the circuit is not closed, then the paint will flow further where it wants to, and it will be very difficult to catch it.
Lined it up and let it dry. Until the liquid reserve is completely dry, usually an hour, thick from tubes three, five hours. But you have nowhere to hurry, put the work before tomorrow and be calm, it will definitely dry out overnight.
And then take paints for batik, a palette in the form of a plate or molds from boxes of sweets, and decorate your batik to your liking, as you like.
If in doubt how to decorate it, then take out the set aside paper with a pattern, take watercolors or other paints for paper and decorate the paper first. Look. If you like, then also decorate the fabric. The coloring technique is simple, with a brush you dripped paint - it flows to itself to the contours. It is on a crepe, it flows worse on others, but it will still spread in the end. The main thing is not to call the brush over the contour to those places where there should not be paint.
About paints. They are also different. There are those that need to be steamed, they are better used for hot batik, but you can also use it for cold batik on pictures that no one will ever wash and wet. And there is acrylic with the label, they are steamed with an iron. Here they are very convenient to use for painting clothes. They are slightly more expensive, but the range!!! Even if you have never been able and do not know how and are not going to learn how to mix paints, then they can get any color ready-made for your money. There are 10 jars in my palette and this is quite a lot even with my endless experiments.
That's it, the most pleasant part of the work is over. The drawing is made and dries on a frame with buttons ...
The drawing is made and dries on a frame with buttons. Dries quickly. If you did not want to apply a contour from a volume reserve in tubes, or some other volume contour, on top of your picture, then in a couple of hours your batik will dry. If you applied some kind of stroke, then, accordingly, it will dry longer.
When the drawing is dry, remove it from the frame and iron it very well to fix the paint. The temperature is selected according to the maximum temperature for this type of fabric. I still then iron through wet gauze, so that it is definitely steamed well. If you used a volumetric contour, then the product is ironed only from the inside out, these temperature contours are not liked at all, they melt and can stick to the board, so good luck with ironing.
Here we fixed it, and now it all depends on how you were going to use this product further. Is that a head scarf? skirt hem? window curtain? A painting for the wall? It is clear that further processing and design of the product depends on this. Here I will describe the most difficult option - the version of the picture on the wall. Why is it the most difficult for me? Yes, because it starts like this: We persuade my husband for two days to make a frame! It is possible to persuade for three days. There are no problems for a skirt or a curtain, I sat down and sewed it, but a frame ... They persuaded me.
So he takes a bar of a suitable section and length and makes a frame for batik out of it. A suitable section is such that as little as possible, but the finished frame would not vibrate, but would be held rigidly. To do it this way: We cut the beam into four parts: on the sides of the frame, moreover, we cut the ends at an angle of 45 degrees, we will now glue these joints. For gluing, we prepare a table of such a size that the frame lies completely on it. We smear the ends with glue and press.
For gluing, we prepare a table of such a size that the frame lies completely on it. We smear the ends with glue and press.
Be sure to align the corners so that all corners of the frame are straight. The photo shows a simple and accessible tool for aligning corners - this is a box from under the disks.
When the corners are a little dry, cut out the corners from thick cardboard and glue them on the corners, fixing them in this way.
And now dry the frame. The frame dries on this table from five to ten hours, a lot is not enough, so that everything is well glued and fixed. And the next day, I usually get it this way, we stretch the fabric with the finished pattern onto the finished frame. This is done simply: one side is smeared with glue and the fabric is pinned with buttons, then the opposite side, and then the rest. If the product is large, then we begin to pin the first side from the corner, and the subsequent ones from the center to the edges. Now dry again. And again, dry for at least five hours, and preferably 24 hours. Now the buttons can be removed.
We have a picture in the batik technique on a frame, ready to decorate it with a baguette.
Learn how to hot-cold-knot batik to make a beautiful scarf or turn an old t-shirt into a designer piece.
Types of batik
Batik is a hand-painted fabric (on synthetics, silk, wool, cotton) for which reserve compositions are used.
Briefly about the technology of this needlework: paints are applied to the canvas in order to get clear boundaries at the junction of shades, a fixer called a reserve is used. It is made on a water basis or using gasoline, paraffin, its composition depends on the chosen fabric, technique, paints.
The word "batik" is translated from Indonesian as "a drop of wax". There are several ways to get a pattern on fabric using this technology:
- cold;
- hot;
- dyeing twisted and bound fabric;
- free painting.
- AT hot batik wax is used as a reserve. It is applied with a special tool called chanting. Wax limits the spread of paint, as it does not absorb it. It is melted down, so this species called hot batik. The paint is applied in several layers. At the end of the work, the wax is removed. In this way, cotton fabric is most often painted.
- Cold batik perfect for decorating silk, artificial fabrics. This technology uses aniline-based paints. The reserve can be liquid when it is based on gasoline and thick if it has a rubber component. There are colorless and colored reserves. Rubber is applied from tubes, and gasoline is applied through glass tubes with reservoirs. In cold batik, a single layer of paint is applied, so the work requires more accuracy compared to the hot method.
- free painting used on fabrics made of synthetic fibers and natural silk. For it, aniline dyes and oil paints are most often used.
- At nodular batik on the surface to be painted, many small knots are first tied, tying them with a thread. After staining, they are removed.
- folding batik or "shibori" is the binding of fabric in a certain way, followed by dyeing.
How to decorate a scarf with your own hands?
Let's move from theory to practice. Try to make such an adorable scarf by cold-casting batik fabric. To do this, take:
- a rectangle of white silk measuring 0.5x1 m;
- buttons;
- frame for fabric tension;
- a transparent reserve and a tube for it;
- special paints for batik blue and blue;
- gasoline, which is used for lighters;
- containers for diluting paints;
- 2 brushes;
- coarse salt.
If you have a frame smaller than the canvas, paint it in sectors. To do this, pin one part, decorate it, then the second and subsequent ones.
In this case, painting on fabric started from the middle sector. Here, according to the plan, there should be clouds. Dilute the paint with a little water, apply to the canvas, and sprinkle coarse salt on top. Such a manipulation is necessary so that the salt absorbs water, while spectacular stains remain on the fabric.
Dry this area with a stream of warm air, holding the hair dryer not close to the canvas, then shake off the salt. After decorating the middle, go to the edge, on which we will depict the sea.
Also wet this area of fabric with water, pull it over the frame. Carefully, so as not to swallow the reserve, pull it into the tube. Blowing onto the canvas, depict the waves or other pattern of the sea. You may get algae or scales of outlandish fish.
Dry the reserve, moisten the fabric again with water, paint this area with blue and blue paint.
Pull on the other end of the scarf, which will show the earth and the plants on it. Draw flowers in reserve, for example, daisies, grass, dry. Moisten the fabric, paint these flowers.
Dry the scarf with a hair dryer, remove from the frame. To fix the paint, iron the decorated canvas several times from the front and back sides with an iron. After that, you need to rinse the product in cold water to remove the salt. In conclusion - iron again several times. Everything, you can beautifully tie a scarf around your neck and admire how wonderful it turned out.
Painting on fabric: cold way
See what other amazing canvases are obtained thanks to this technology.
This can be enclosed in a beautiful frame and hung on the wall. Used for work:
- natural silk - crepe de chine;
- black reserve, glass tube for him;
- buttons;
- stretcher;
- aniline paints;
- simple pencil;
- kalanok brushes.
When drawing elements on the canvas, draw them so that each has a closed path. Apply the reserve to the contours without delay, but also slowly so that it has time to go inside the fabric, but does not leave blots.
- Wash the fabric, stretch it well on the stretcher, securing it with buttons.
- Fill a glass tube with a reserve, apply this composition to the contours of the elements of the picture.
- To have more shades, dilute the same paint with different amounts of water. To do this, it is convenient to use disposable cups or jars of yogurt.
- First, paint the flowers - from light to dark, then the background.
- Sprinkle the canvas with salt, let it dry, then shake off the salt.
- When the batik fabric is dry, remove it from the stretcher. After a day, boil for 3 hours, wash in soapy warm water. Rinse by adding a little vinegar to the water.
- Gently wring out, iron the fabric damp.
Batik technique - hot way
This is suitable for those who do not want to painstakingly paint over each fragment of the canvas, showing perseverance. Even if you don’t try too hard, you will still get exclusive suits, skirts, scarves made using the batik technique, if you then sew these products from the resulting fabric. Let's get acquainted with this method of decorating fabric closer.
Traditionally, craftswomen first apply any of these substances in molten form to the canvas:
- paraffin;
- wax;
- stearin;
- or a mixture of these substances.
Now brushes are widely used, with the help of which point drops, strokes are applied to the fabric. After that, the top is covered with paint.
Then you can again apply wax and other paint to certain areas. If you want patterns to be organized, you can dip stamps into melted wax and apply it in this way.
You can use 2-3 tones or more - 4-5, then you get a canvas of this type.
When the paint dries, you need to get rid of the wax. To do this, put a newspaper on the canvas, iron it. It will absorb the melted paraffin. Then put another one, iron it. Use other newspapers if there is wax residue.
Check out the master class, which tells how effective clothes made according to the batik principle will look. In this case, you will decorate the shawl.
For work you will need:
- natural fabric (silk, cotton, wool);
- cardboard stencil;
- paints for painting on fabric;
- glass of water;
- brushes;
- wax;
- cellophane, newspapers;
- rubber gloves;
When working, wear clothes that you don’t mind ruining, as the fabric paint does not wash off. It is better to wear a waterproof apron that will protect things.
- Cover the work surface with newspapers, cellophane, so that it does not get dirty.
- Dilute yellow paint in water in a container. Drop the fabric here.
- When it is colored, wring it out with gloved hands, dry it with a hair dryer to dry faster.
- Place the stencil on the canvas. It can be not only autumn leaves, but also butterflies, flowers, hearts, etc.
- Place the pieces of wax in a small saucepan or ladle, melt in a water bath. You can use candles.
- Attach the stencil to the selected area on the fabric, apply melted wax here with a brush.
- If you want, shake off the wax from the brush so that beautiful drops and streaks appear on the handkerchief. To do this, you can rub them with a brush.
- Add a little green to the aqueous solution of yellow paint, cover the fabric with this light green paint.
- Blot the drops of paint from the leaves with a sponge (they will not turn light green, as they are covered with wax). Dry the fabric with a hair dryer.
- Iron the fabric through a cloth. To make the scarf softer, rinse it in water to which you add conditioner.
- It remains to dry the stole and you can try on a new thing, admiring how batik paints and your diligence helped create a designer item.
T-shirt coloring page
Batik technique will also help us to create it. You can draw flowers, animals, using a cold, hot method, or make an abstract drawing like this.
It will help to make the nodular method. For it you will need:
- paint for batik;
- white threads;
- technical bowl;
- water;
- brush;
- cotton or silk fabric.
Tie knots like this:
The step-by-step master class shows you how to proceed.
Using this technique, you can make patterns not only on T-shirts, but also color leggings.
Look at several ways to fold the fabric to make batik fabric.
The first figure shows that you first need to flash with a basting, then tighten this thread and wind it into place. In the second picture there are already 3 basting seams - two of them are made on the right, and the third on the left. It remains to tighten the thread, wind it, and you can dye the fabric to make batik.
To fold the canvas, as fig. 3, you will need:
- the cloth;
- wooden board;
- a thread;
- scissors.
The next sample is obtained by folding the fabric several times and tying it with a rope crosswise.
How to draw flowers?
You can use the following ideas when you create children's or adult clothes using the batik technique, a canvas for decorating a room. Flower arrangements look great on such things.
- To draw a violet, first draw a circle, slightly extended to the left and right edges.
- In its center, mark the core, from which a small oval comes up, which will later be a pedicel. Don't forget to draw the stem.
- Here's how to draw the flowers next. We depict 3 symmetrical petals, and behind the top two - one more.
- Draw 2 toothed leaves on one stem.
- Erase the oval. This is how you can color batik fabric by drawing violets on it.
- Draw 3 ovals of different sizes. In the center of each, depict the wavy core of the flower, and at the bottom - the stem.
- Now you need to draw a flower around each core, and a bud at the top right.
- Draw the stems more voluminous. Draw leaves for each, draw them around the flowers as well.
- Erase the guide circles.
You need to immediately draw a bouquet of flowers on the canvas, without auxiliary lines, so it’s better to practice this on paper first, and then you can create a children’s batik or an adult one on fabric.
And here is how to draw roses.
First, draw a few circles on paper, then convert each one into a multi-layered blossoming bud. Step by step photos help with this. Having practiced on paper, you will draw a reserve of roses on the fabric from the first time and create a colorful canvas using the batik technique.
Master class “Painting fabrics using the cold batik technique”. Acquaintance"
Author: Ekaterina Alexandrovna Gulkova, teacher of the art department of the MU DO VDShI of the Taldom municipal district of the Moscow Region.The master class is intended for children of middle and older school age, technology teachers and educators additional education, parents.
Target:
Acquaintance with the painting of fabric in the technique of "cold batik"
Tasks:
Consolidation of skills in painting fabric
Development of a sense of harmony, color, composition
Development of accuracy, attention, artistic taste
Materials and tools:
Fabric (cotton, rayon, natural silk (toile, crepe de chine, chiffon) to choose from)
Hoop or frame with buttons
Silk paints (you can use watercolors)
Reserve
Applicator or glass tube
Brushes (squirrel, pony, kolinsky to choose from)
Decorative outline for fabric.
Progress:
1. Be sure to wash the fabric with soap (fabrics are sold with a special coating, it will interfere with the absorption of paint).
2. We stretch the still damp fabric onto the frame or fix it in the hoop. Let's dry.
3. We choose a template that is suitable in shape and size for the hoop or frame. On the Internet great amount variety of patterns and designs. Do not take templates with small and numerous details - simple and fairly large forms are suitable for a small format. My template is hand drawn.
If you use your own drawing, then you need to trace everything along the contour with a marker and fit the template to the shape.
4. We fix the template from the inside with paper tape.
5. On the front side, draw around the contour with a pencil. Usually, the template shows through the fabric well. (You can do without a pencil - apply the reserve immediately according to the template, which is visible through the fabric. But in this case, the template should be at some distance from the fabric and not come into contact with it. Otherwise, at the points of contact between the template and the fabric, the reserve will blur with ugly spots).
6. After you have circled the contours with a pencil, the template must be removed. And you can start applying the reserve. The reserve is used to prevent spreading and mixing of paint. It should be applied very carefully so that the reserve necessarily impregnates the fabric. All lines must be closed neatly, without breaks. Otherwise, liquid paint will find even the smallest hole and blur behind the contour with a stain. When the reserve is applied, leave it to dry. Depending on the type of reserve, the drying time may vary. I left the Batik Hobby reserve to dry for a day. I also want to add that glass tubes and applicators have different nozzle diameters.
7. Fill with color starting from the background. The paint can be taken undiluted, or to obtain lighter tones in a separate container, dilute it with water (make the desired color scheme). Take a little paint - it is very concentrated. If desired, the colors can be mixed and get new shades. Very similar to watercolor mixing.
8. Then we proceed to coloring the figures and elements of the composition. This is the most fun part of the job! Leave until completely dry. The colors fade a little as they dry, so you can add a second coat of color where needed.
9. This is where you can finish the job or add some nuances and accents with a decorative outline on the fabric. I used the Dekola contour. Let it dry completely again.
10. To give the work a finished look, I cut the fabric in a circle with a small allowance and glued it to the inner ring of the hoop from the wrong side. Voila! The work is finished and you can decorate the interior with it! The place where the hoop is tightened can be used as a fastener.
Important nuances when choosing materials:
1. Fabric:Of course, the most ideal option would be natural silk, but this is a very expensive pleasure.
Artificial silk will give shine to the work, but it is very difficult to use: the fabric is quite dense, and the reserve may not soak it through the first time, paint spreads extremely reluctantly on artificial silk, as it is poorly absorbed into the fabric.
Cotton fabric is the golden mean. The material is inexpensive, it accepts paint well, it is easy to work on this fabric.
2. Paints:
This master class was made using paints on silk "Batik Hobby" (Gammovskie). This is the most a budget option dyes on silk. They mix well with each other, are spent quite economically. Without fixing the paint on the fabric (steaming the product in a water bath), the product is afraid of moisture. Water ingress on the finished product and wet cleaning are unacceptable.
You can use silk dyes fixed on the fabric with an iron (for example, Batik Hobby Acrylic, Marabu, Yavana)
You can use watercolor paint.
3. Reserve:
In this master class, the Batik Hobby reserve on a gasoline basis was used. It has one very significant minus - a very strong smell. Therefore, only children of the older age group can work with it in well-ventilated areas. At the same time, this is one of the most reliable reserves - it holds paint perfectly. It is sold in plastic jars and to work with it you need special glass tubes or applicators (plastic containers with plastic or metal tips). I use Yavana applicators
There are reserves based on gutta. I have not worked with them yet, but according to reviews, their smell is not as strong as that of gasoline reserves.
The best option is a water-based reserve. It has no smell. But it is necessary to work with it more carefully, since its paint retention qualities are lower than those of others. I use the Marabu water reserve - it is sold in tubes, ready to use without additional tubes and applicators.
4. Brushes:
Squirrels, ponies, speakers will do. In my opinion, the best option- squirrel. It is smoother and more pointed than a pony, but softer than a column.
I do not recommend using synthetic brushes in this work. They hold liquid paint in a different way and often, when the brush comes into contact with the surface of the material (paper, fabric), they release all the liquid at once. That is, it turns out not a smooth return of paint, but a sharp, large drop.
The bristles are also not suitable - too stiff.
Batik is a kind of creativity, when a pattern is applied to the fabric. The history of batik technique goes back many centuries. Items made with batik were very popular at the time. As a rule, perfection in this case also knew no bounds.
In many countries, such as - Africa, India, Indonesia, Japan - mainly women were engaged in such creativity. Most likely because such an occupation requires perseverance and painstaking work.
Types of batik
There are several types of painting, and much depends on the material used, the technique and the desired result. The property of any kind is that one method must be applied to silk, and the other is suitable for synthetics.
Now it remains to find out in more detail what can be done with the batik technique:
Hot look. Wax is used as the main material. To apply it, you need a special tool - chanting. Wax prevents the spread of the coloring matter, because it does not absorb it.
To use wax for these purposes, it is melted. That is why this type of batik is called hot. Paint is applied in several layers, and the wax is removed after everything is done. Basically, cotton fabric is suitable for this.
Cold batik. This method is suitable for decorating silk. An aniline-based paint is used. The reserve can be thick if it contains liquid rubber components; gasoline is used to dilute.
Basically, rubber is squeezed out of tubes, while gasoline is used using glass tubes. Colored and transparent reserves are applied. cold look involves applying in one layer, which is why special care is needed, in contrast to the hot method.
Free painting. As a rule, it is used on natural silk and artificial fabric. Used for this decor mainly oil paints and aniline dyes.
Folding batik "shibori". The principle of this technology is to bandage the mother in a special way, after which paint is applied.
Knot view. This is the case when many knots are made on the decorated fabric, tied with a thread. When the paint is applied, the nodules are removed.
Preparation for work
Practicing batik always causes the most pleasant emotions especially when there are positive results from work. In the future, your own style and uniqueness will appear. At the very beginning it is better to use cold equipment because the hot look will be much harder.
Before starting work, you need to prepare well for it. Literally everything depends on the quality of the paints. Wash clothes with batik in cold water with the addition of vinegar to it. The following is a list of what you need to create.
Hoop and frame
If you need to make a pattern on a small fabric, then you will need an embroidery hoop for this. But on a large scale, you need a frame or stretcher on which to attach the fabric.
The fabric is fixed on the frame with special hooks that are included in the kit. On the stretcher, everything is made simpler, and you can fix the material with a needle and thread, only so that the frame does not touch the fabric.
In fact, everything is done much easier, and you can fix the material with simple buttons. But silk will be an exception in this case.
Paper and fabric
To make a project, you need a regular sheet of paper, the same scale as the drawing on batik. In order to apply a drawing, you need a natural fabric: silk, cambric, double-thread.
Note! 
You should not use thick and dense material for these purposes, since the coloring composition may not saturate the fibers, which will cause an “explosion” of the paint, and the colors may mix.
Materials and tools
Reservation agent, glass tube for it and paint, all this is available in the batik set. Also, there is contour water with a dispenser, ready for use. In this case, the glass tube is not needed.
If you wish, you can complicate the process and prepare a reserve at home, and not use straws, but find nozzles that you can then put on a bottle. It is not recommended to boil a mixture that includes gasoline and rubber glue, since in addition to an unpleasant smell, this activity can cause a fire.
It is better to just buy a ready-made kit of everything you need for painting fabric. The paints in it are in a liquid state, sometimes in the form of a powder that needs to be dissolved. It is better to use synthetic brushes.
To work with batik, you need to wear old but comfortable clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty. Because the paint, as a rule, is not displayed.
Note! 
From words to creativity
Now let's analyze in detail - how to learn how to draw with the batik technique:
First you need to pull the fabric tight so that it does not sag. It is best to use a wet canvas, because after it dries, the workpiece will appear elastic.
Prepare a sketch, first draw on paper with a pencil, drawing every detail well.
Fasten the paper under the fabric so that the design can be transferred from paper to fabric. Use for this, it is better to use a soft pencil.
Outline the lines with a reserve. The reserve is recruited so that the tip of the tube falls into the container with the contour liquid, and at the other end there should be a rubber syringe, with which the liquid is drawn into the tube.
It is necessary to check the circuit after the reserve has dried completely. It is necessary to draw on the batik with a wet brush along the drawing along one of the sides of the contour, and a little later check whether water has soaked through the reserve line. If there are places where the contour is poorly visible, then it is necessary, after drying, to draw again for good visibility.
Note! 
At the end of the process, the reserve must be blown back into the container and the tube rinsed in gasoline. If this is not done, then the particles of the reserving substance will solidify, and the tool will become unusable. The finished product can be framed.
It happens that the masters do not use the reserve, but simply apply salt to the paint that has not yet dried, it is saturated with it and interesting stains are obtained. This gives an excellent effect, and then unique compositions.
Below are photos of batik painting techniques.
Professional passion
Sooner or later, drawing on fabric, you can feel that the batik technique has become much better, and you can already create masterpieces with your own hands.
Today, many people are interested in the possibility of painting fabrics. After all, this gives a chance to a novice artist to use his potential. During such creativity, style and new ideas will appear. Over time, batik will become much more interesting than just drawing on paper.
If you take this matter seriously, you can get good experience and become an expert in this field. Many who have the main income from this creativity, at the very beginning of their journey, did not think that they would be successful in this area. In the future, you yourself can give master classes in the technique of batik.
It is painting on silk that pays very well, and if you start doing this, then you can get a good fee on such a hobby in the future.
Photo technique batik
They forget about the long and painstaking work that the creators put in.
It’s easy to argue - they say, it’s somehow expensive ... And if you take all the hours and minutes spent on making something out of nothing, make something out of nothing, it turns out that the author even robs himself.
At the very least, artists often like to count how many and what stages they went through when creating their masterpieces. not an exception. Let's try a little calculation.
Steps in creating a fabric painting
I must say right away that the terms are approximate, average.
Read also:
1. It is necessary to collect material, think over a sketch - about 2-3 hours.
2. Creation of a drawing, sketch, template - 3-5 hours. With multi-layer technique, a separate stencil is made for each layer. This, of course, increases the time.
3. Preparation for work. Selection and cutting of fabric, washing it to remove special impregnation, drying, ironing, if required - 3-5 hours.
4. Stretching the fabric on the stretcher - about an hour (depending on the complexity of the work and the cut of the fabric).
5. - depends on the complexity of the picture. On average 2 hours.
6. Preparation of tools, checking the dye on an unnecessary cut, selection of shades. 1 hour.
7. Applying a reserve composition for cold batik. Approximately 2-3 hours.
8. The painting itself. This time varies, each master has his own. Let's take the average time - 4-10 hours for work of medium complexity.
9. Drying of the product (it happens by itself, no time is spent).
10. Preparation for fixing the dye: removal from the frame, rolling into a roll in case of heat treatment. Not more than an hour.
eleven. . Ironing - 0.5 hours. Steam treatment - 3-4 hours.
12. Laundry work, ironing - no more than an hour.
13.Processing of practical products (scarf, shawl). Most appreciated is the manual hem in the form of a roll. Hard work and very meticulous. On average it takes 3-5 hours.
14. Photographing the resulting work. Image processing. 2-3 hours.
16. Packing of goods before sending to the buyer + time spent at the Post Office - 2-3 hours.
And I am also describing the cold technique of painting fabrics, when working with wax, the process itself increases by several hours, because the reserve composition is applied layer by layer, and then removed with paper.
And in the case of free painting, the matter still needs to be primed.
In any case, you can clearly see that the process of creating batik is laborious, energy-intensive. And this was not yet about the skill of the author, about the personal brand that the artist created for himself over the years of work. That is why handmade by default cannot be cheap, because in addition to long hours of work, a piece of the soul of its creator is invested in it.
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