In Kaliningrad, the exhibition presents all the most famous photographic portraits by Barbieri. The exhibition includes photographs for the collections of fashion houses Versace, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Armani and others, made in the 70-80s.
Superstars are watching us from black and white pictures.
Years go by, but the stars do not change. If you become a star, then you are a bright and intelligent person, a person. are changing simple people, but stars remain stars, - says Gian Paolo and admits that he was lucky with celebrities, they treated the work of the photographer with respect. - When Audrey Hepburn came to me to shoot, she brought slippers from home. In order not to get dirty White background in a studio.
Gian Paolo also had a chance to photograph Russian beautiful women.
From working with Maya Plisetskaya there were very good impressions. She came to my studio in Milan with Rudolf Nureyev. They worked in a subtle, elegant manner and did everything I asked them to. The peculiarity of Russian women is beauty. For me they are among the most beautiful women the world,” the photographer recalls.
But some artists, for example, the charming Monica Bellucci, Barbieri filmed naked. By the way, there are also such photographs at the exhibition in Kaliningrad.
Monica Bellucci walked into my studio one fine spring day wearing a light dress and huge heels. When I saw her, I was numb with beauty, - says the maestro. - When we started working, I realized that Monica can give me a lot. Then I asked her to pose almost naked. At first she refused and said: "It is absolutely impossible." In those days, I worked with a Polaroid camera, which allowed me to immediately see what was happening ... At some point, Monica relented and said: "Do what you want." I just have a huge number of her nude photos! There is no vulgarity in them. She is very sweet and well educated.
The photographs selected for the exhibition in Kaliningrad show the entire cross-section of the fasion industry of those years. A separate section of the photo exhibition included a series of portraits of European, US and Russian stars.
The main thing in photography for me is the idea that is formed in the head. I often draw before taking pictures, says the Italian. - Photography has changed a lot with the advent of modern computer technology. BUT digital photography cannot be compared with analog. There is no retouching or photoshop in my pictures at all. The faces are like that because the make-up was perfect from the very beginning. And the photographers of my time cannot be compared with modern ones. Yes, and models of the past - they were all personalities! If it was a blonde, then it was a blonde! And today all models are equally anarexic.
Gian Paolo took a short tour of Kaliningrad. He especially liked the building of the Königsberg Stock Exchange, where the art gallery will move in the future.
He admitted that he plans to bring another exhibition to Kaliningrad. The master wants to show us a trilogy of books about Tahiti, Seychelles and Madagascar. This is an interesting anthropological project.
Now Gian Paolo Barbieri is working on a project dedicated to the 400th anniversary of the death of William Shakespeare. And recently finished creating a photo catalog jewelry and perfume collections for Bulgari.
The Fashion and Fiction exhibition, which will be taken to St. Petersburg after Kaliningrad, runs at the art gallery until May 17.
FROM THE "KP" DOSSIER
Gian Paolo Barbieri was born in Milan in 1938 (aged 78), studied at the Catholic University. He worked as an assistant to Tom Kublin, got acquainted with the collections of fashion houses Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga. Then the young photographer was entrusted to create the cover of the first issue of Italian Vogue. After that, orders from French, German and American publications poured in. The photographer opened his own studio.
Soon he moved to Rome for an internship at an Italian film studio, where he met Luchino Visconti and Federico Fellini.
Barbieri is associated with famous couturiers: for the fashion houses of Armani, Versace and Valentino, he made many famous advertising campaigns and iconic portraits from Audrey Hepburn to supermodels Verushka and Mirella Petteny.
He not only witnessed the change in fashion and the image of women in the 1960s, but he himself influenced these changes.
Barbieri is called the reformer of the visual reality of the 20th century, the creator of a new format of fashion photography in post-war Europe, one of the best portrait painters in the history of world photography.
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An Italian photographer told the people of Kaliningrad how he photographed the nude Monica Bellucci..Alexander KATERUSHA
Today MAMM opens an exhibition of Italian fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri as part of the Fashion and Style in Photography 2015 Biennale
As part of the 9th Moscow International Biennale Fashion and Style in Photography 2015, MAMM presents an exhibition of Italian fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri Fashion and Fiction. For more than forty years, his name has been associated with the most famous fashion houses: Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Armani, Versace, Gianfranco Ferré, Vivienne Westwood, for which he created advertising campaigns.
Gian Paolo Barbieri is the recipient of numerous prestigious awards and his work has been published in the world's leading fashion magazines: Vanity Fair, Vogue Italia, Vogue Paris, GQ, etc. Barbieri exhibitions are held in the world's most prestigious museums and galleries, including: the Victoria and Albert Museum (London), the National Portrait Gallery (London), the Palazzo Reale (Milan), Eduard Planting Gallery (Amsterdam), Kunstforum exhibition hall (Vienna), Institute of Fine Arts (Minneapolis), etc.
The author of the cover of the first issue of Italian Vogue, one of the best portrait painters in the history of world photography, who created pictures of great movie stars and supermodels: Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Verushka and others. Gian Paolo Barbieri was not just a witness to the changes taking place in the fashion world, he himself had a huge impact on the changes taking place, in particular, by creating new format fashion shooting in post-war Europe, acting not only as a photographer, but also as a stylist for his models.
Gian Paolo Barbieri was born in Milan in 1938 and studied at the Catholic University. Soon he moved to Rome, where he trained for a year at the legendary Italian film studio Cinecitta, met Luchino Visconti and Federico Fellini, whose work had a huge impact on the formation of the Barbieri style. His shots are incredibly cinematic. Carefully crafted in terms of light, shadow and framing, they convey the amazing effect of movement that has become calling card photographer.
The love of cinema has forever become one of the main vectors in the work of Barbieri. Sometimes on purpose, sometimes unwittingly, he constantly refers the audience to the images created by his favorite directors: Ernst Lubitsch, Alfred Hitchcock, Vincent Minnelli, recreating the atmosphere of cult films.
At Cinecitta, he was spotted by fashion photographer Tom Cublin, who in 1961 offered Barbieri an assistant position, which allowed him to work with the collections of fashion houses Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as discover the world of haute couture. In addition, this experience marked the beginning of a long-term collaboration between Gian Paolo Barbieri and the publishing house Condé Nast.
Since the 1990s, having worked with almost all the leading fashion designers and glossy magazines, Barbieri turned to travel photography. He photographed the people and nature of Madagascar, Tahiti and the Seychelles. His exotic nude series explore the theme of human sexuality. Currently, Gian Paolo Barbieri spends a lot of time between the Seychelles and Milan, where he continues to collaborate with Vogue and Vanity Fair, writes books, and works on new projects in the still life genre, one of his new hobbies.
For the first time, photographs of the cult Italian photographer are presented in St. Petersburg: in the museum contemporary art Erarta is hosting the Fashion and Fiction exhibition, a retrospective reflecting the different stages in the development of Barbieri's creative genius.
A great photographer is not just called a genius. He made a revolution in the history of post-war fashion and photography. It was he who designed the cover of the first Italian Vogue in 1965. After success in their native land, one after another, Barbieri received orders from French, American and German publications. In an era when gloss was gaining its popularity, Barbieri once again did the incredible - he returned to black and white photographs(Moreover, he completely abandoned retouching). After all, perfect make-up, perfectly aligned light, playing with shadows and complete mutual understanding of the master with the model created the perfect photo at the end.
©GIANPAOLOBARBIERI
Barbieri himself came up with images for his models, selected clothes and accessories, and most importantly, he could see and pull out the very hidden and intimate. This is how the portraits of Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Jerry Hall, Monica Bellucci, Vivienne Westwood, Maya Plisetskaya and other recognized beauties of the era were obtained.
The unique style of Barbieri is largely due to his passion for cinema. The Italian himself was educated in the field of dramatic art, therefore, in his works, he largely recreated the refined atmosphere of the best films of Italian neorealism. Inspired by Barbieri and American cinema. In the photographs presented at the exhibition, one can easily see references to the work of Alfred Hitchcock or Michael Curtis with his famous "Casablanca".
©GIANPAOLOBARBIERI
Now Barbieri is 79 years old, for more than 40 years he continues to create and fulfill orders from the most prestigious world publications, embodying his vision of beauty and elegance in his photographs. Valentino, Armani, Versace, Gianfranco Ferré - many high-profile advertising campaigns and iconic photographs belong to his authorship. In spite of old age, Barbieri is always looking for new directions in his work, one of his latest hobbies is still life photography.
Gian Paolo Barbieri(English) Gian Paolo Barbieri, R. 1938) is an Italian fashion photographer.
Biography, creativity
Gian Paolo Barbieri was born in Milan in 1938. The family of the future photographer was engaged in wholesale trade fabrics, and his father was the owner of a department store. In the 50s, together with friends, he organized the art group "The Trio". In addition, in his youth he was under strong influence cinematography (he even played a small silent role in Luchino Visconti's Medea, 1969 and was a photographer on the set of some scenes of Federico Fellini's La Dolce Vita, 1959).
Gian Paolo Barbieri is considered a self-taught photographer. By his own admission, in his youth he drew inspiration from cinema (Barbieri is even called a cinematographer in the field of photography) and postcards by unknown authors at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries (such postcards were a popular phenomenon of their time, while being considered kitsch for a long time. Later they influenced the development of surrealism and some other areas of painting.It is known that such postcards were collected by Salvador Dali and Andre Breton). For some time I gained experience, working and famous photographer of that time, Tom Kublin. the beginning professional career Barbieri can be considered a joint publication with Kublin in Harper's Bazaar 20 days before the latter's death. At the beginning of his career, he shot a lot on a white background. Until, on the advice of Gianni Versachi, he decided to use real scenery, which also became an innovation for fashion photography In 1963, Barbieri briefly collaborated with the Italian magazine Novita (in 1965, Novita was transformed into Vogue Italia, for which Barbieri designed the first cover in their history).
In the 1960s, most magazines did not yet have the position of fashion editor, and Barbieri himself began to create hairstyles, jewelry, and the like. Often Barbieri used unusual materials (for example, earrings with table tennis balls painted in mother-of-pearl color). In 1964, Barbieri opened his own studio in Milan and began working with fashion designers a few years later. At the same time, close cooperation with Walter Albini (Walter Albini) served as an occasion for discussion and recognition of the profession of stylist. Models for photo shoots by Gian Paolo Barbieri were such stars of the time as Mirella Petteni, Audrey Hepburn, Jerry Hall, Veruschka, Monica Bellucci and many others. The photographer also collaborated with fashion houses Armani, Versace, Ferre, Dolce&Gabbana, Pomellato and Giuseppe Zanotti.
In the late 1980s, Gian Paolo Barbieri began to travel extensively, retraining as a travel photographer. During this period of his work, he created the Tahiti (1989), Madagascar (1994) series and others. Some of his exhibitions in Europe at that time were curated by David Bailey (for example, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and at the Kunstforum in Vienna).
In the 2000s, Gian Paolo Barbieri continued to travel, while also working on fashion shoots for a number of magazines and fashion houses. In 2015, the 29 Arts In Progress gallery in Milan hosted an exhibition of Barbieri's works, at which the master presented photographs stylized for various subjects, made in his "special, sensual manner".
Gian Paolo Barbieri traditionally works with an analog camera and does not retouch his photographs. One of his early cameras was the Reflex Voigtlander 35mm. In 1968 he was awarded the Biancamano prize as the best Italian photographer and was named one of the 14 best international fashion photographers by the German magazine Stern in 1978.
The godfather of post-war fashion photography and one of the main portrait painters of Audrey Hepburn, Monica Belucci, Vivienne Westwood and Sophia Loren is taking his work to St. Petersburg. From September 1, Erarta will show iconic photographs by Gian Paolo Barbieri, who in many ways made the image of Vogue magazine and the brands Valentino, Armani, Versace and Gianfranco Ferre. We were the first to see the Fashion and Fiction exhibition, organized jointly with the Moscow Multimedia Art Museum, and we are talking about the most valuable exhibits.
Audrey Hepburn in Valentino. Italian Vogue. Rome, 1969
Barbieri created a fundamentally new format for fashion photography, taking the dynamism of cinema as a basis and returning to black and white photographs when all the gloss has been perfected in color. His main art mentors were the German director Ernst Lubitsch, the American director Vincent Minnelli, and the most terrifying thriller writer Alfred Hitchcock, whose techniques he tried to emulate in portraits, including the actress Audrey Hepburn. The photo for Italian Vogue, taken in Rome, is his favorite: the clarity of the lines of the Valentino hood and Hepburn's eyes attract and repel at the same time, because after a while, next to the photo, the film star's smile ceases to seem cheerful and emotional.
Jerry Hall in Vivienne Westwood 1997-1998
In the "wild" photo of actress Jerry Hall, Barbieri combined the DNA of the Vivienne Westwood brand and the style of Hans Holbein's portraits. Campaign, filmed in the late "grunge" 90s, appeals to the artist's medieval works for the royal family: they can be unraveled by arrows with love notes, a jacquard dress with a square neckline, a giant fur coat like Henry VIII and a cutter around the neck - no, not the model, and the fluffy animal in her hand.
Simoneta Gianfelici for Valentino, 1983
Barbieri's iconic farewell photo was inspired by the Casablanca film. The picture with the model Simoneta Gianfelici almost repeats in detail last scene film, where the heroine Ingri Birdman boards a plane to Lisbon, and Humphrey Bogart sees her off with the words: “If you stay, you will regret it. Perhaps not today, perhaps not tomorrow, but soon and for the rest of your life.”
Pelliccia Veneziani. Italian Vogue, 1975
Italian Vogue editorial also cosplayed one of the existing work, namely the painting by Giovanni Segintini "Wind Mothers". Especially for this, a huge tree was brought to the photo studio, which Gian Paolo Barbieri cut down with his own hand.
Apollonia, Italian Vogue, 1980
Barbieri loves jazz and constantly turns it on at photo shoots - whether the models like it or not. On one of the shootings for Vogue Italia, actress Apollonia van Ravenstein picked up the saxophonic waves and began to dance flamenco in a bow of a pleated blouse, a pencil skirt, a stylish belt made of metallic fabric and a cigarette charismatically taken between her teeth.
Sue Smithers for Yves Saint Laurent. French Vogue. Paris, 1977
Gian Paolo introduced the world to more than one professional model, including the main cover girl of the 70s, Sue Smithers. Her debut shooting took place in cold Paris, and Yves Saint Laurent himself prepared the clothes for the shooting.
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