Glad to welcome you again! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. You know, I am not always satisfied with the work of my Nikon camera, sometimes it does not suit me - darkish frames are obtained. Sometimes I have to try to adapt and do exposure compensation and post-processing, but most of the time I adjust the conditions to suit my needs.
And the external flash helps me in this! That's why main topic articles - how to choose a flash for nikon. Below is a short introduction. Later in the article, we will look at what are important qualities from illuminators, and we will devote a few paragraphs to modern flashes and their purchase.
I already wrote in the previous article, you can acquaint.
External flash
First of all, let's answer the question: what does an external flash (BB) look like and what is it? This is a device for additional lighting in photography, it has a pulsed nature, that is, it works in the mode of temporary light flashes.
Unlike built-in, external has a number of advantages. For example:
- this is a lot of power;
- they are flexible in operation and have several modes;
- endowed with a swivel head, etc.
Such an artificial light source comes in handy every time you shoot in a dark room and also outdoors. In this case, you do not have to get out using the camera settings (open, long or high) and lose image quality because of this, because long exposure will give a lot of blur, and a large ISO - noise. If, of course, you have a professional camera, then everything is simpler here.
When using explosives, remember that it does not consume much energy, but in fact it still drains both its own batteries and the camera battery. Therefore, an additional set of rechargeable batteries is desirable to have.
Flare Models and Selection Criteria
When buying any equipment, including photography, pay attention to its properties. So, we will list the important characteristics of the flash, which you need to focus on.
- Construction, plus size. Standard flashes, which are often seen with photographers, have a singular emitter. But there are also two-lamp, which are located on the lens itself. Due to the fact that the position of each of the lamps can be controlled, the object is perfectly illuminated from all sides. Another type is a flash in the form of a ring, which is fixed on the optics and illuminates the subject so well that it excludes any shadows, that is, it acts as a fill light. The fourth option is represented by a special - underwater - flash.
- Fastening. Usually, the explosive is attached to the camera body from above - on the “hot shoe”. Other types of flashes have a threaded mount and can be placed on a tripod, while the mentioned ring and dual-tube flashes are equipped with a special fixture to stay on the lens.
- flash rotation. The part of the flash called the “head” is always more or less movable, allowing it to be directed in different directions to reflect light from walls, ceilings, etc. The angle of rotation is a significant indicator that increases the capabilities of the device. It is different in the upper position, in the lower and horizontally.
- Power, or guide number(in meters) is how far the flash can propagate the light pulse. Together with this parameter, one can consider the latitude of the illumination angle, which directly depends on the focal length number. Alas, a large F can significantly narrow the area of \u200b\u200blight, a small one can increase it.
- Flash duration(seconds) - the duration of the flash pulse, or, roughly speaking, how fast it can puff.
- Synchronization. It can be adjusted using the curtain-slit shutter, choosing both Slow Sync (slow) and FP (high-speed), there is also front or rear curtain sync.
- Modes. A good flash will give you multiple ways to shoot! Choose any you like: bracketing, strobe or, say, just constant light.
- Control. Nai the best option is wireless control, with cable or remote control. Then you can use not one, but several flashes to fully illuminate the subject or create an unusual, complex light-shadow pattern: the main flash on the camera synchronizes the rest (slave ones), passing them the current settings. With remote control, you do not have to be near the photolight.
Flashes by Category
It is worth separating the types of flashes, since some may not be suitable for a certain camera. In general, we can talk about three main options, which differ both in price and functionality.
Budget
Their undoubted advantage is in low price, as well as in small dimensions. These are ordinary flashes, which have very few control options, most likely, this is only power. Perhaps, such an explosive can be used to start, but soon you will grow out of its limitations.
Can be brought into Nikon example Speedlight SB-400. It is not expensive, and in principle it will suit all Nikon cameras. It is logical to use it with amateur cameras - d3100, d3200, or d3300, as well as d5100, d5200, d5000.
You only have one button on and indicator. Here special regimes except auto and manual, no. In addition, it will only work with new lenses that provide autofocus. The range of the photo illuminator is small - only 21 meters. There is a rotation of the head, but in the subsequent model SB-300 it is increased from 90 to 120 degrees.
semi-professional
A class of flashes that will work more adequately with mid-range cameras.
I would call here the Nikon d7100 and the flash for the Nikon Speedlight SB-600 or SB-700. Features of this and explosives of the second type in great opportunities. This is a swivel head, and an information screen, and power and lighting angle control.
Most importantly, now you can use a group of different flashes and experiment with lighting.
Professional flashes
Large, expensive and high quality.
What can you advise for Nikon? Quite - Speedlight SB-910. The flash has a standard lamp and mount, display, swivel head in all directions. And then the interesting begins: the illumination angle varies at F from 17 to 200, exposure compensation, several types of synchronization, and most importantly, an excellent guide number of 34 meters.
This also includes the Speedlight SB-5000.
The given models of flashes for models of SLR cameras do not indicate their limitations. You can use, for example, a professional flash with an entry-level Nikon D3100 SLR.
If you don't quite understand your reflex camera and want to get the most out of it. Want to achieve great results in photography. And you understand that the instructions for the camera do not give the desired results, then the course is “” (if you have NIKON) or “ My first MIRROR” (if you have CANON), your lifeline. Study this video course from cover to cover, and you will notice how much progress it has brought you. The right investment is an investment in self-education.
Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- who has a NIKON camera.
My first MIRROR- who has a CANON camera.
All the best, readers! My blog is always open for you - come, subscribe and call your friends!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
No flash will ever replace a full-fledged studio lighting(although, when working in a studio with multiple external flashes, you can use the same lighting schemes). But it is the flash that allows you to get correctly exposed frames with a lack of light in reportage shooting conditions - primarily indoors. It also helps out a lot when the lighting is sufficient, but incorrect, creating sharp and unsightly shadows - for example, on a bright summer day or in backlight.
Modern external flashes are extremely intelligent devices that can illuminate the scene with sufficient quality without the intervention of the photographer - independently determining all the necessary parameters. This, of course, is very good for amateurs who do not yet fully master the technique, and for professionals when working in harsh reporting conditions. But this is also bad because complex algorithms for evaluating and setting parameters require close interaction between the flash and the camera.
Therefore, leading manufacturers of photographic equipment usually produce flashes for their cameras. So, for DSLRs, as well as some Canon compacts (for example, the Canon PowerShot G12), a line of Canon SpeedLite flashes is offered. The line can be divided into amateur (budget), semi-professional and professional segment.
The amateur model - Canon SpeedLite 270EX differs from the built-in DSLR flashes and compacts only by a slightly higher impulse power. And a large, in relation to the optical axis of the lens, the angle of incidence of light (due to the size of the flash), which makes it possible to encounter and deal with such a problem as “red eyes” less often.
Semi-professional - Canon SpeedLite 430 EX, Canon SpeedLite 430EX II. These flashes have a greater pulse power, which makes it possible to more effectively illuminate the photographed scene in difficult light conditions, and to "get" more distant objects. These flashes also have a movable head that can be rotated in the vertical and horizontal planes. The movable head makes it possible to shoot in reflected light - from walls or ceilings.
The professional Canon SpeedLite 580EX II, in addition to even greater power and large head angles, has the ability to "zoom" - adjusting the illuminated area to the field of view of the lens for a specific focal length. Another important difference is a significantly shorter recharge time for the next “blitz” and the ability to connect various external power supplies. Finally, the Canon SpeedLite 580EX II comes in a rugged, dust- and moisture-resistant housing.
In addition to those mentioned, Canon offers some special flash units. For example, Macro Ring Lite MR-14EX and Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX for macro photography, mounted on the lens.
In addition to "native" flashes for Canon, there are many third-party models on the market - Acmepower, Nissin, Sigma. All of them often have more functionality (for example, autozoom in semi-professional models) at the same or lower price than Canon flashes. Unfortunately, third-party flashes are often less reliable and efficient in operation solely due to a “misunderstanding” between the flash and the camera - certain modes (except, perhaps, TTL metering) may work incorrectly or not work at all.
Metz flashes stand somewhat apart. Metz has been manufacturing flashes for a long time and seriously, and incorrect (inevitable in some cases) work with individual camera models more than pays off with the vastness of the model range, an abundance of various accessories, more flexible control, unique opportunities and design features (like, say, a second "eye" for highlighting the foreground).
When choosing a particular flash model, the main thing to pay attention to is the "guide number". A flash's "guide number" is the maximum distance in meters at which, at ISO 100 and f/1.0, a subject can be sufficiently illuminated to be properly exposed, and is essentially a measure of flash output. This maximum distance will decrease in proportion to the decrease in the relative aperture, and increase in proportion to the increase in ISO. For a zoomed head, it will also depend on the dispersion angle.
Everything else: head rotation angles (in one or two planes, maximum values, number of positions), zooming (automatic, manual, absent), capacitor charging time for the next pulse - optional or necessary for specific tasks.
- maximum power. The guide number is the distance at which you can get a good and correct frame with aperture 1 and sensitivity 100.
Also pay attention to TTL - a parameter that affects the determination of flash output depending on the exposure of the frame. One more important parameter flash - the presence of an automatic zoom in it, which allows you to change the distance to the object without losing focus and giving better light.
If flash performance is important to you, for example, if you are reportage photography- get a flash with high speed battery recharge.
More best option suitable for a limited budget - semi-professional flashes. Such a flash is suitable for you if you are not engaged in complex professional photography as a profession and art form, but you want to get frames from memorable events and interesting places. High Quality.
If your goal is to shoot reports, work in difficult conditions and make money with photography - get a professional flash with high power and a minimum recharge period. If you specialize in macro style photography, you will need a short focal length macro flash.
Related videos
note
How to choose a flash? This question often worries a novice photographer who has decided to buy a serious light source and is dissatisfied with the built-in flash. The built-in flash accessories and attachments on the market are not a real help, but just another way to make money.
An external flash gives the photographer great opportunities both for reportage shooting and for staged photo shoots. But how do you choose the flash that's right for you? In this article, we'll walk you through the most important flash specifications to look out for when buying, and help you choose the flash you need.
Sources:
- Flash for the camera, choosing and checking external flash
To get high-quality photo in low light conditions, you need to photograph only with a flash. Flashlights are so different, and some of them can be made independently, for example, ring LED.
You will need
- Camera, 8 flashlight keyrings with LEDs, self-adhesive tape.
Instruction
Measure the required length of Velcro tape: the length will be the diameter of the camera lens that will be pasted over, “plus” an additional two centimeters. Cut off the desired length of self-adhesive tape.
Paste the lens with Velcro tape, of course, without covering the lens glass.
Remove the protective layer from the surface of the Velcro tape.
Attach the flashlight key rings evenly over the surface of the adhesive tape.
Related videos
note
If you are not sure that you can combine two circuits (light synchronizer and photo flash), do not experiment! Seek professional help from a specialist.
Useful advice
In the open spaces global network you can find a diagram of a powerful flash. Add a flash synchronizer circuit to the above project: thanks to this combination of two circuits, you will not need to pull wires from the camera synchronizer to its flash. It will be enough to place the flash somewhere nearby, and with a camera in hand, move freely around the room in search of masterpieces. The flash and the camera will fire simultaneously: as soon as one turns on, the other will immediately work. The flash is normally charged within one second. At the same time, you can always connect several more IFC120 channels if the power of one channel is not enough. "Increasing" power will allow for multi-stage adjustment. Moreover, lamps that are much more powerful than the IFC120 can also be used, however, they will cost much more. And one more thing that you should pay attention to is that during prolonged operation, severe overheating of the resistors is possible. To cool them, you can use ordinary computer coolers that cool the internal components of the system unit. Such a cooler will be powered by a transformerless rectifier.
Sources:
- An article on how to make a flash.
Flash is widely used in photography. It is needed to create a powerful and mobile light source close to natural daylight. Thanks to the flash, you can shoot an object in the dark time of time, as well as experiment with lighting, creating highlights and shadows in the photo.
Knowing the basics of flash photography allows you to shoot any moving subject without blur and with good sharpness, as well as photograph in the dark. A flash is also recommended for filling in shadows in backlit situations. Not bad with it, pictures are obtained against the background of a window or a very light background.
Please note that flash photography will different results. For example, a straight line will create harsh, hard shadows, highlights on shiny surfaces, and a "cold" tone to the photo. And with reflected, you will get rid of highlights and shadows, getting a warm and picture.
When using a flash, it is recommended to remove it away from the camera. This will greatly reduce the risk of red-eye and create a more pleasing lighting effect. When using flash, an umbrella can be used as a reflective and diffusing surface. To do this, unscrew the flash head and point it towards the umbrella (the opposite subject) to reflect the light towards the subject.
The difference in lighting when using flash can be noticed by pointing it towards the ceiling and walls. The disadvantages of flash include a small area of illumination and flat light, due to which scary, ugly shadows, red eyes and other imperfections are obtained in the picture.
To avoid them, practice various flash techniques. For example, you can use "flash to the ceiling." This is one of the most popular tricks. But for this you need the ceiling to be white and not too high.
To compensate for the lack of reflected light from the ceiling, attach a white reflector the size of a playing card to the flash. It will direct some of the light to the subject and reduce the density of shadows in the picture. In some models of cameras, a special visor has been developed for this purpose, which acts as a reflector. A mini soft box for flash helps to achieve high-quality pictures at night. But the price of mini soft boxes is quite high.
With a built-in flash, you can attach a small mirror to it at an angle to diffuse the light. Shooting using direct flash light is only advisable as a last resort.
Related videos
27233 We improve our skills 0
Communication with the winner of one of ours, who received a prize for the victory - a flash, suggested a gap in the site's photography school lessons: how and by what criteria to choose a flash. Of course, this lesson should have been placed in the course, but since we announced the end of the publication of the materials in this section, we put it in the course "Improving skills". As the saying goes, better late than never.
Almost all modern cameras equipped with built-in flashes. But, as we already found out in the basics of working with flashes, there is little sense from them, the “minuses” are no less than the “pluses”. Whereas an "on-camera", external flash mounted on a hot shoe (make sure your camera has one) is not only more powerful, but also allows you to use both direct and reflected light (because its "head" can be directed up or turn to the side), highlight shadows or, for example, take pictures with long-focus optics. Given the diverse needs of photographers, manufacturers produce a variety of flashes.
So, you have firmly decided to buy a flash for your camera. And it is right! How to make the right choice? Which flash should you choose? These questions often worry a novice photographer who has decided to buy a serious light source and is dissatisfied with the built-in flash.
Flash brands
Today's market for the sale of photographic equipment offers a large number of different flashes from various manufacturers. Most companies, such as Nikon, Canon, Sony and others that produce cameras, release their own "branded" flashes. This category is usually the first thing to consider when choosing a flash.
But there are also a few independent manufacturers such as Metz, Nissin or Sigma, as well as rising Chinese manufacturers such as Yongnuo. The difference in price with branded ones may make you pay attention to this particular category. But before you buy this or that "non-native" flash, you need to make sure that it fits your camera model. This is indicated on the flash label (for example, for Canon).
"Hot Shoe" Canon cameras and Nikon
It is very important that the flash integrates with your camera's autoexposure system and also includes other useful features. Flashes that are not compatible with your camera's hot head will not work.
Types of external flash units
Flashes come in a variety of shapes and sizes, which may refer to different genres of photography.
camera-top flashes that are mounted on top of the camera directly on the "hot shoe", above the viewfinder. These are the most common and popular outbreaks.
ring flash- ring flashes, which are most often used by macro and fashion photographers. Ring flash concentrates light around the lens and removes shadows. It is worn, as a rule, directly on the lens and connected to the "hot shoe" through the interface device.
twinflash- work on the same principle as ring flashes, highlight the subject and exclude shadows. You can attach optional flash units and rotate them around the lens.
Hammerhead- (type "hammer") due to its power and range - this is a favorite flash wedding photographers and reporters. Mounted on the side of the camera on the tripod thread through the bracket.
Choosing the right type of flash depends on your needs for the genre you are shooting.
Flash characteristics
1. Guide number. All outbreaks are usually evaluated by the guide number. HF is the maximum distance (in meters) from the flash to the subject being shot at which a normally exposed image is obtained (depending on the aperture of your lens and the aperture value of the matrix) and means the maximum energy of the light pulse of the flash.
If the passport of your flash indicates that the guide number is, for example, 38 at ISO 100, then this means that for widely used whale zoom lenses with a maximum aperture of 3.5, you will get a flash distance of 38 / 3.5 \u003d 10, 8 meters. To increase this distance, it is necessary to increase the sensitivity of the ISO matrix, but to values at which there will be no increased noise.
2. Flash metering system. There are 3 ways to determine exposure when using flash.
1 - Manual mode. IN manual mode You decide which exposure settings to set. For this, special tables are used depending on the exposure from the flash power mode and the distance to the object. Or change the power depending on the shooting results by making a correction, evaluating the result from the histogram. We will not go into the details of this method, since it may be needed only in rather rare cases of studio shooting.
2 - Automatic mode. In this mode, before the main flash, the flash produces a series of very short pulses, almost invisible to the eye, the flash sensor analyzes the reflected signal and, based on the calculation, sets the operating mode to obtain the correct exposure. Everything happens very quickly and almost imperceptibly for the photographer. The advantage of this method is that it can be used with any type of camera, including older models.
3 - Automatic TTL ("through the lens") mode. As well as in simple automatic mode, the flash produces a preliminary cascade of pulses, but the signal receiver is not in the flash itself, but in the camera, after the lens. This is the most accurate metering method, since the light flux is analyzed after passing through the lens, i.e. this is the light that creates the image on the matrix. The specific technical implementation of the automatic TTL mode in cameras of various brands is different, but the principle of operation is similar to that considered. Plus TTL mode that the flash works in automatic mode, and you do not make any special settings. The downside is that TTL flashes are more expensive.
In many modern flashes, all three modes are present, which expands the scope of their application for different cameras and shooting conditions.
3. Minimum recharge time is the amount of time it takes for the flash to charge and be ready for the next shot. The smaller this value, the better flash and it is more convenient to use.
4. Flash head rotation in various planes. The most inexpressive shots are obtained with frontal lighting, so the ability to direct the flow of light in different directions is very useful property outbreaks.
5. The presence of a zoom reflector flash matches the angle of scattering of the light flux from the flash with the angle of the lens field of view. A very useful feature, as it allows you to increase the distance to the subject when using zoom or interchangeable lenses with different focal lengths.
6. The presence of additional diffusers. Many manufacturers offer special diffusing devices for their flashes to further eliminate the effect of harsh directional light and get soft natural light.
7. Ability to create a lighting system from several flash units. Modern electronics makes it possible to create a system of interconnected flashes, in which one is the leader and, through its impulse, controls the rest of the slaves through special sensors built into them. On slave flashes, you can set the required pulse power and thereby implement almost any lighting system for an object, similar to studio light.
8. Availability LED backlight to shoot video. Recent flash designs include this handy feature.
9. Dimensions and weight of flashes are directly dependent on the characteristics listed above. Agree that it is difficult to equip a compact flash with a large number of functions and batteries.
Other characteristics - the presence of a socket for connecting an external power source, the ability to shoot a definitely large number of frames, the quality of the flash display and the amount of information displayed on it - are not so important for an amateur, and we have not considered them. If necessary, you can easily deal with them.
And one last piece of advice. Before buying, carefully read the instructions for the flash that you are going to purchase. A modern flash is a rather complex electronic device, with many functions and capabilities. Therefore, after carefully reading the user manual, you may discover a lot of new and interesting things for yourself, and make the final choice.
For today, that's all we wanted to tell you. Good luck with your choice and all the most photographic!
In this article, I will only consider native Nikon SB-series Speedlight flashes that can operate in modern i-TTL mode.
Before buying, I advise you to think about whether it is needed at all. To do this, I advise you to read the materials in the article on the topic ‘ ‘. If buying a flash is justified, then Nikon provides these external flashes:
| Flash | Weight, g | zoom | Master | slave | Backlight | V.Ch., m | A comment |
| SB-300 | 97 | 27mm, no zoom | No | No | No | 18 | The lightest Nikon flash. Very simple. Uses small AAA batteries, does not support FP. |
| 127 | 27mm, no zoom | No | No | No | 21 | Very simple flash. No FP mode. | |
| 226 | 24mm, no zoom | yes (only on older cameras) | eat | eat | 24 | A small flash without a display, but capable of a good set of basic functions. | |
| 300 | 24-85mm | No | eat | eat | 30 | Morally obsolete amateur flash, good functionality for your money | |
| 360 | 24-120mm | eat | eat | eat | 28 | Light functional flash. A very good option. I recommend. | |
| 350 | 24-105mm | eat | eat | eat | 38 | powerful, but obsolete professional flash. | |
| 425 | 17-200mm | eat | eat | eat | 34 | Good professional flash. | |
| 420 | 17-200mm | eat | eat | eat | 34 | flagship model. One of the best | |
| SB-5000 | 420 | 17-200mm | eat | eat | eat | 34.5 | flagship model. The best of its kind. |
| SB-R200 | 120 | 35mm, no zoom | No | eat | No | 10 | Can only work as a slave flash with , cannot be used on the camera. There is no display for flash control. This flash is for macro photography. |
zoom- zoom head limits of the flash, Master- possibility remote control other outbreaks, slave- the ability to work in a slave mode, Backlight- the possibility of auxiliary illumination for automatic focusing, V.Ch -.
To be extremely brief, the best external flashes are the flagship professional Nikon Speedlight SB-5000 and . The difference between and is not so great, I described in detail about the differences between the 900 and 910 in the review. For professional photography there are no other native alternatives, as it is obsolete, and they don’t release it anymore. Flashes, 900, 910, unlike all the others from this article, have.
If you don’t need to shoot for days on end with a flash, then for more simple tasks flashes and . It’s a pity, but they don’t release it anymore, this flash is quite light, functional, but it doesn’t know how to control other flashes using. The flash is quite cheap, but it is very difficult to find a new one. Unlike , the new one has a wider zoom, easier control through a large display and can work in Master mode.
And SB-300 are the most simple and the cheapest external flashes from Nikon. These flashes are very light, and therefore there will be no problems with them with weight distribution when used on amateur cameras by type , etc. These flashes are perfect for Nikon Coolpix cameras. True, with the SB-300 it will not be possible to experience all the advantages of working with an external flash, such as focus assist, quick sync or remote control. Attention: Nikon SB-300 flashes and cannot be used with non-chip lenses (lenses, etc.) and some cameras ( , exact list unknown).
Personal experience
I have used almost all flashes from Nikon, they all have their own characteristics. IN Lately I have two flashes in my service: and . A very good option for amateur and simple professional photography can be. If you abstract very strongly, then you have to choose from 900\910 and 700tk.
I think that for 2017 it is the best option in terms of price / quality.
Loading...