Olga worked with plugins AKVIS MultiBrush, AKVIS Retoucher, AKVIS Coloriage in photo editor Adobe Photoshop. Here is what she writes:
In this lesson, I would like to show by example how to transform old photo, fill it with colors and new content using plugins AKVIS Retoucher, AKVIS MultiBrush, AKVIS Coloriage and graphic editor Adobe Photoshop.
For my example, I took the old black and white photo, made on embossed paper, due to which the photo received additional damage over time, in addition, the photo is missing a corner, the rest of the corners are wrinkled, and there are small scratches and cuts on the face.
- Step 1. First of all, we will remove the yellowish tint from the photo using Adobe Photoshop why choose from the menu Image -> Adjustments -> Desaturate. Convert the image to RGB.
- Step 2. Now let's call the plugin AKVIS MultiBrush(menu filter -> AKVIS -> MultiBrush) to remove frayed bumps on paper.
Zoom in on the image to make it easier to remove paper defects. Let's choose a tool Clone Stamp / Stamp, change the stamp size to 4 . In the plug-in window for damaged fragments, carefully clone neighboring undamaged sections of the photo.
- Step 3. Then we will remove the cracks and restore the missing parts of the photo, for which it is most convenient to use the program AKVIS Retoucher.
Let's zoom in again to make sure we don't miss a single scratch, and carefully select all the damage that needs to be retouched using the Quick Mask / Quick Mask. To do this, on the toolbar, activate the mode (button or key Q) and a tool (button or key B)
- Step 4. Now back to the mode again (button or key Q) and choose from the menu Select -> Inverse(keys Shift+Ctrl+I), which will highlight all the scratches in the picture:
- Step 5. Next, call the plugin AKVIS Retoucher(menu filter —> AKVIS—>Retoucher), press the button to start the retouching process and simply observe how the selected defects disappear from the photo:
After finishing the retouching process, click on the button that appears to accept the result. Remove the selection by selecting Adobe Photoshop from the menu Select -> Deselect / Deselect(keys ctrl+d) and get the restored photo:
- Step 6. Now you can proceed to the most entertaining moment - coloring.
Thanks to the plugin AKVIS Coloriage this process will take you a few minutes.
Let's call the plugin AKVIS Coloriage(menu filter —> AKVIS—>coloriage). Using a tool (button or key I) select the desired colors from the palette Colors / Colors or from Color Library / Color Library. Then select a tool (button or key B) and outline all the objects with the selected colors.
AKVIS Retoucher - software for image recovery and photo retouching.
AKVIS Retoucher is not just removes scratches, stains, dust and other defects from the surface of the photo, it recreates the missing pieces using neighboring parts of the image.
With one click you get rid of scratches in the photo, delete unnecessary inscriptions and even unwanted items. The background texture is restored, the program reconstructs it after the object is deleted.
The program is very simple, you can easily learn how to use it.
Just highlight what you want to delete and click the "start" button. The program will do everything itself. You will watch in amazement as a new image is created before your eyes.
AKVIS Retoucher allows you to remove not only defects, but also objects from a photograph.
For small parts, automatic processing is sufficient; when removing large parts of the image and complex objects (cars, people accidentally caught in the frame), it is required to perform additional actions, "telling" the program where it is better to take fragments to fill the removed areas.
If you need to increase the size of the canvas, Retoucher will help increase the borders of the image.
Printers use the program for prepress preparation. Often there is a need to expand the boundaries of the layout when there is no room for cropping. AKVIS Retoucher saves time by doing it quickly and efficiently!
The program is equally useful for retouching old black and white photographs, as well as for processing modern color photographs.
With AKVIS Retoucher you can:
Retoucher is the perfect retouching tool that will facilitate processing, save time and allow you to enjoy the restoration process and the result!
AKVIS Retoucher is presented as a plugin for graphic editors ( plugin) and as a separate, independent program ( standalone), which does not require the presence of photo editors.
The Retoucher plugin is an additional (plug-in) module for photo editors and is compatible with the most popular programs: AliveColors, Adobe Photoshop, Corel PaintShop Pro and others.
Features of AKVIS Retoucher depend on the type of license . During the trial period, you can try all the options and choose the most suitable one.
The program is available in Russian.
We intentionally will not use quick image recovery tools, special plugins, etc. things. Because to understand the essence and basics of photo restoration, everything must be done “manually”.
Photoshop version: Photoshop 7 and above;
Working hours: about 4-5 hours;
Photo with which we will work:
1. Open the photo that needs restoration in the program. We get the layer background» (Background) and duplicate it.
Double-click on the name of the resulting duplicate and rename it to " Restoration"(Restoration). The background (the first layer) can be hidden for now, you will need it later.
2. Add a new adjustment (Layers - New Adjustment Layer - Levels). Set the parameters as in the screenshot (put black on 7 and white on 243 ).
3. Select a tool (Pipette Tool / Key "I") and set the size of the sample to be taken 5 X 5 rx.
4. We begin to retouch white spots and scratches. Take a soft round brush about 21 px and with pressure 0 , set the brush blending mode to (Darken). And we begin to fill the voids (cracks) in the photo.
In this step, it is difficult to give precise instructions on how and what to do. You have to decide for yourself what will be best for this or that photo. General principle work consists in the following: we collect a sample with a pipette from the very edge of the crack (in the brush mode, press and hold + or alt - temporarily switch to the pipette, click in the right place, release - again brush with a given sample) and then fill the voids of the photo with this sample. It is better to work on an enlarged image, because the more accurately the sample is taken, the more accurate the photo will look later. Tablet owners can set in the brush settings the dependence of opacity on pen pressure, and when working with the mouse, you can set the opacity of the brush to 50% and gradually fill in the gaps. This way of working will help to smooth out the borders between the areas of shading and the original photo as much as possible.
After completing this step, the photo looks more decent.
5. We highlight dark spots. The work process is similar 4 step, only the blending mode for the brush is set to lighten(Replacing light).
At the end of this step, once again look at all the photos as a whole: and correct the flaws unnoticed at the beginning. The photo should now look something like this:
6.
Background fix.
Now the background in the photo looks dirty. The transitions between tones in the background should be softened and made natural. Above the layer Restoration» (Restoration) create a new layer and name it « Background corrections» (Background correction).
Now, using a soft round brush in 400 -500 px mode Normal 50 -80% , we begin to align the background tones. technology as in 4 and 5 steps (brush-pipette-brush). Mistakes can be corrected eraser with the same settings. Take your time, achieve a result that really suits you.
7.
Retouching the face.
The face is processed with a strong increase with a brush in about 25
px mode Normal(Normal) and with opacity 70%
. The process technology is the same.
In order not to lose anatomical details, you can use another photo from a similar angle, laying guides along the main lines. Since Jenny Lind was famous person. it was not difficult to find such a photo. If there is no such photo, then you need to be very careful during restoration so as not to remove anything you need.
In this case, since the main features of the face were very poorly preserved in the original photo, the eyes, nose and lips were taken from the selected photo in a similar perspective. On the analogue, the extra parts are covered with a mask and the brightness and contrast are corrected for the overall picture.
After correction, these two layers can be merged and continue working with the entire image.
8. Adding noise.
Retouch old photos in Corel PaintShop Photo Pro
Sofya Skrylina, teacher at the Art training center, St. Petersburg
Corel's PaintShop Photo Pro raster editor has a rich toolkit for retouching old photos. In this article, we will look at the tools used to restore old photographs and look at a few retouching examples.
Scratch Removal
To automatically remove scratches, a dialog box is used, called with the command Setting -> Add/Remove Noise -> Automatic removal of small scratches. It is necessary to indicate the color of scratches, the intensity of the filter action and the limits of local contrast (Fig. 1).
As a rule, this filter copes well with small scratches, but sometimes areas of the image are mistaken for scratches. In this case, you need to apply a filter to a copy of the layer and apply a mask to the layer, protecting the required areas with black.
For semi-automatic scratch removal, you can use the tool Scratch Removal, which is in the same group as the clone brush. Set the size of the tool on the properties panel, and then drag the mouse along the scratch, enclosing it in a frame (Fig. 2). The edges of the frame serve as samples for restoration. If the scratch goes through contrasting areas, then it is better to apply the tool several times, changing small parts of the scratch.
A tool is used to manually remove scratches. Clone brush. Before you start cloning, you need to define a sample with the right mouse button. As a result, a cross will appear indicating the place where the sample will be taken from (Fig. 3).
To remove dark scratches, set the blending mode to Lightening to make dark tones lighter, and for light scratches it is better to apply the mode Blackout. If you just want to superimpose part of the image on the scratch, use the Norm. Reducing the opacity of the tool also helps to achieve a better result.
Removing blemishes and discoloring a photo
Old pictures created professional photographers last century, tinted in some color. Therefore, before you start retouching, you should get rid of the tint by turning the picture into a black and white image. Desaturation and removal of spots on the image is performed in the dialog box, which is called by the command effects -> photo effects -> black and white film. As a rule, it is not necessary to change the initial settings (Fig. 4).
But in cases where the spot is located on a white or light photo background, the default settings will only desaturate and convert the spot to shades of gray. Therefore, to brighten it, it is necessary to shift the point by color wheel. For example, to remove yellow spots, move the point so that red is set to 100% and green and blue to 0%.
Noise Removal
The commands can be used to remove noise. Noise removal in one step and Digital Noise Reduction from the menu Setting. Also in submenu Setting -> Add/Remove Noise contains a sufficiently large number of commands, the choice of each of which depends on the specific case. For example, in fig. 5 shows the dialog box Edge-preserving anti-aliasing from this menu group. The degree of smoothing, equal to 4, in this case turned out to be quite enough to remove extraneous pixels on the child's face.
Rice. 5. Dialogue box Anti-aliasing while preserving edges
Restoring Lost Fragments
Restoring lost fragments is perhaps the most difficult stage of retouching, because it is not known what should be depicted on the deleted fragment. Therefore, you have to finish drawing parts of the image, including your own fantasy and imagination. What retouching tools will help restore parts of the picture?
To restore large fragments, you can “patch” them with fragments taken from other parts of the photo, and then glue the created layers into one with the command Layers -> Drain -> Merge with bottom. To "fill" the borders obtained when copying fragments, you need to use the tools Clone brush, Mitigation and smearing(Fig. 6).
Toning a black and white photo
After retouching black and white photography it can be tinted to the color that was used in the original image. To do this, use the dialog box called by the command Setting -> Hue and saturation -> . In this window, check the box Coloring, change slider position Ott. to set the staining color and move the slider Saturation to set the color intensity (Fig. 7).
Now let's look at the use of retouching tools on specific examples.
Rice. 7. Hue/Saturation/Lightness Dialog Box
An example of retouching a black and white photo
On fig. 8 shows a photograph that has a greenish tint.
To desaturate the image, use the command effects -> photo effects -> Black and white film with default settings (Fig. 9).
Rice. 9. The result of the filter Black and white film
Tools to remove scratches Scratch Removal and Clone brush(Fig. 10).
Now let's blur the photo a bit to remove the noise created during the scan. To do this, it is enough in the dialog box Smoothing edge-preserving set smoothing level 5.
I would also like to darken very light areas without affecting the mid and dark tones to bring out the book cover and remove the highlight on the girl's face. To do this, in the dialog box Highlights/Midtones/Shadows enter a negative value in the field glare. The window is opened by the command of the same name in the submenu Setting -> Brightness and Contrast. To lighten the overall image and increase the contrast in the window Levels, which is located in the same submenu, move the gray slider to the left, and the black slider to the bottom of the histogram graph. During the tone correction, some scratches may appear, we will remove them with a clone brush (Fig. 11).
And finally, you can tone the photo, for example, color it in sepia color. To do this, you can use the command effects -> photo effects -> Sepia toning with an aging level of 30. You may need to slightly increase the contrast of the image. The retouching result is shown in fig. 12.
An example of retouching a color photo
Typically, color photographs taken in Soviet time, necessarily have a color shift. Therefore, when restoring a color photograph, in addition to removing scratches and noise, it is necessary to carry out color correction.
On fig. 13 is given color photography with a clear predominance of red. Due to the fact that the girl's dress and bows are also red, this can be overlooked. Look at the picture more closely: the white check on the girl's dress has a pink tint; the background should be blue or cyan, and it is clearly mixed with red. Therefore, in the course of color correction, it is necessary to remove the excess of red by adding cyan.
Let's start with scratch removal. Passing a photo through a filter Smoothing keeping the edges with a value of 3. Then we will erase the scratches with the tools Scratch Removal and Clone brush(Fig. 14).
Now let's start correcting the color shift. We need to remove the excess red. This can be done by increasing the amount of green and blue, or decreasing the amount of red. Because the RGB image model is additive, reducing red will darken the image, while adding green and blue will lighten it.
One of the color correction tools that allows you to influence color channels is the dialog box. Levels, which is called by the command of the same name from the menu Setting -> Brightness and Contrast. In the red channel, move the black slider to the right to decrease the amount of red. In the green and blue channels, move the white slider to the left to increase the content of the corresponding colors (Fig. 15).
To complete the correction, you can slightly increase the saturation of the image in the dialog box Hue/Saturation/Lightness. Must disable checkbox Coloring and increase the parameter value Saturation. If the color of some fragments of the photo does not suit you, you can tint them with the tool paint brush in blend mode Color. At the very last stage of retouching, you can re-remove the noise that occurs during the color correction of the image. The end result is shown in fig. 16.
As you can see, with the Corel PaintShop Pro graphics editor, you can bring back to life your favorite childhood photos or pictures taken long before you were born.
I offer a very quick and easy way to get rid of dust on a dark object and at the same time lighten and whiten the background. It is not as accurate as a full-fledged technical retouch, but it gives good results. A video demonstrating the process is attached at the end of the master class. The steps are detailed.
The method can also be applied to other dark objects, for example, to eliminate cat hair and dust on a dark sweater. I tried to describe all the steps so that those people who have never used Photoshop could use the method, but just in case, I set the difficulty to medium.
In some of the photos, you can see that I have the backlighting of keyboard shortcuts turned on while I work.
I'm using macOS, so the keys are mapped to that. If you are using Windows, everything will be exactly the same, only the Ctrl key will be used instead of the Cmd key. All combinations are indicated in two versions, and for Windows in brackets. For example, Cmd+0 (Ctrl+0), means that you need to hold down Cmd (Ctrl) and the "0" key at the same time.
If the ⌘ symbol is lit on the screen, then I have the Cmd (Ctrl) key pressed.
⌫ - backspace
⌥ - Alt.
Let's start!
1. So, we have this photo. And we see a lot of dust on it.
Let's take a closer look at the lens:
We see on the lens great amount dust. Let's assume that we have no opportunity to reshoot. So, you need to fix everything with Photoshop.
2. Create a new curves adjustment layer. "Layer - New Adjustment Layer - Curves".
3. Choose a white pipette, as in the photo. Now we will bring our image to full visual contrast by setting the black and white point with pipettes. What are black and white dots? The black dot is the darkest neutral scene significant point of the image, the white point is the lightest neutral scene significant point that is not a glare or a light source. Why am I talking about plot significance - for example, the background does not play any role for us, although it is lighter than the camera. Let's look at the process in more detail. Let's choose a white pipette:
4. And, holding down the Alt key, we begin to drag the light triangle in the lower right part of the curve to the left. Separate details begin to appear - first the lightest, then those that are slightly darker than the lightest, and so on. We are waiting for the appearance of a white (this is very important!) detail on a plot-significant object. In this case, on camera.
5. We see that everything around the camera has become white, and a white detail has appeared on the camera itself - the image on the button.
Let's zoom in on the image and hold down Alt (this is not necessary, you can release the button, but in this case the visualization will disappear) click on the white dot.
What does this give us? This dot becomes neutral (white with no tint) and becomes the brightest dot in that image (on camera). Anything that was brighter than this emblem on the button goes into overexposure. Because the White background was brighter, it becomes highlighted.
6. By the same principle, we will find a black dot, only now we drag the triangle to the right and select the black eyedropper. We need that black detail on the plot significant object that will appear first.
As a black point, I selected the shadow area on the camera and clicked on it with a black eyedropper. This point has become dark and neutral.
What did it give us? The camera has become full contrast. Dark areas became dark, light areas became light. More volume appeared, the background went into overexposure.
7. Fix the result on a new layer with a very long and tricky keyboard shortcut. Press Alt+Shift+Cmd+E (Alt+Shift+Ctrl+E). This command will merge the layers and place the result on the top layer.
8. All previous steps were aimed at bringing the image to full contrast. Now let's start getting rid of the dust. If the image does not require black and white points and looks good on its own, you can skip the previous steps and start from here.
Call the filter "Dust and scratches". "Filter - noise - dust and scratches".
In this filter we have two settings - radius and isohelion. The radius controls the strength of the blur, the isohelion controls the difference in tonal levels at which the blur occurs. Start small and work your photo down to values that will eliminate the dust. Blurring is not usually required to be very large, and the effect on dust is controlled by the isohelium value.
Select the parameters and click OK. The result of the filter.
In this form, of course, you can not leave a photo. The necessary details are gone, the lens is blurry and unsharp. Add a black mask to the layer by clicking on the mask icon while holding Alt.
9. Take a white brush from the toolbar on the left, put the cursor on the mask, as in the screenshot above and use a white brush right on the image to show the result of the filter where we need to remove the dust (paint with a white brush on the dust). In the event that we have shown something superfluous and an important detail has disappeared, the effect can be removed with a black brush (white / black color is switched with the X key).
We get the following result:
Already better, but traces of exposure are still visible.
To remove them, we will use a useful Photoshop option - blend mode. Since the dust is light and by covering the dust, we are actually darkening it, then if we could take only the darkening effect in the area of the dust, eliminating the other, then we would get a more accurate result.
Switch the top layer to the "Burn" mode (hover over the word "Normal", click and select "Burn").
We get the following result:
It already looks neater, doesn't it? The dust is gone.
10. I am already doing further actions solely because I wanted to achieve a more accurate picture.
Let's collect the layers into a group by selecting all our layers, except for the background (I have layer 3 in the picture, since I fixed the result on a new layer by pressing Alt + Shift + Cmd + E (Alt + Shift + Ctrl + E), which do not necessarily) and pressing Cmd + G (Ctrl + G). You can select several layers at the same time by clicking on them while holding down the Cmd (Ctrl) key. The selected layer is highlighted.
11. Put a mask on the group by clicking on the mask icon at the bottom right. Here we need a white mask, so Alt is not pressed when creating the mask.
And with a black brush we will hide the effect of the correction where it seems redundant to us.
12. I did not like that after all the corrections the color of the lens changed - it became reddish. To return the original color, I will make a copy of the background by placing the cursor on the background and pressing the key combination Cmd + J (Ctrl + J). We will drag this copy to the top by simply clicking and dragging it with the mouse.
12. From the copy of the background, we only need color, so we will rearrange the top layer to the "color" mode.
Ready! It remains only to export the photo for the Internet. Let's choose the command File - Export - Save for Web.
13. Set the size and quality of the images. The size depends on where you are going to post the photo. I chose the size 1500 on the larger side, the smaller one resized itself while maintaining the proportions. Be sure to check the "Convert to Srgb" box if the photo goes to the Internet. Otherwise, when published on some resources, the photo may change color in an unpredictable way.
Video:
The whole procedure takes 2-3 minutes. Successful work!
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