Glad to welcome you again! I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. You know, I’m not always happy with the performance of my Nikon camera; sometimes it doesn’t suit me - the shots I get are darkish. Sometimes I have to try to adapt and do exposure compensation and post-processing, but most often I adjust the conditions to suit my needs.
And an external flash helps me with this! That's why main topic articles - how to choose a flash for Nikon. Below is a short introduction. Later in the article we will look at what are important qualities from lighting specialists, and we will devote a few paragraphs to modern flashes and their purchase.
I already wrote in a previous article, you can read it.
External flash
First of all, let’s answer the question: what does an external flash (EF) look like and what is it? This is a device for additional lighting in photography; it is of a pulsed nature, that is, it works in the mode of temporary light flashes.
Unlike the built-in one, the external one has a number of advantages. For example:
- this is a lot of power;
- they are flexible in operation and have several modes;
- equipped with a rotating head, etc.
Such a source of artificial light comes in handy every time when shooting in an unlit room and also outdoors. In this case, you won’t have to fiddle with the camera settings (open, long or high) and lose image quality because of this, because long exposure will give a lot of blur, and a high ISO will produce noise. If, of course, you have a professional camera, then everything is simpler here.
When using an explosive, remember that it does not consume a lot of energy, but in fact it still drains both its own batteries and the camera’s battery. Therefore, it is advisable to have an additional set of batteries.
Flash models and selection criteria
When purchasing any equipment, including photography, pay attention to its properties. So, we will list the important characteristics of the flash that you need to focus on.
- Design, plus sizes. Standard flashes, which are often seen among photographers, have a single emitter. But there are also two-lamp ones, which are located on the lens itself. Due to the fact that the position of each lamp can be controlled, the object is perfectly illuminated from all sides. Another type is a ring-shaped flash, fixed on the optics and illuminates the subject so well that it eliminates any shadows, that is, it acts as fill light. The fourth option is represented by a special – underwater – photo flash.
- Fastening. Typically, the explosive is attached to the top of the camera body - on the “hot shoe”. Other types of flashes have a threaded mount and can be placed on a tripod, while the mentioned ring and dual-lamp flashes are equipped with a special device to stay on the lens.
- Flash rotation. The part of the flash called the “head” is always more or less movable, allowing it to be directed in different directions to reflect light from walls, ceilings, etc. The rotation angle is a significant indicator that increases the capabilities of the device. It is different in the upper position, in the lower position and horizontally.
- Power, or guide number(in meters) - how far the flash can spread the light pulse. Together with this parameter, we can consider the width of the illumination angle, which directly depends on the focal length number. Alas, a large F can significantly narrow the area of light, while a small one can increase it.
- Flash duration(seconds) – the duration of the flash pulse, or, roughly speaking, how fast it can go off.
- Synchronization. It can be adjusted using the curtain-slot shutter, selecting either Slow Sync (slow) or FP (high-speed), and there is also front or rear curtain sync.
- Modes. A good flash will give you multiple ways to shoot! Choose any one you like: bracketing, strobe or, say, just constant light.
- Control. Nai the best option is wireless control, with cable or remote control. Then you can use not one, but several flashes to fully illuminate a subject or create an unusual, complex light-and-shadow pattern: the main flash on the camera synchronizes the others (slave ones), transmitting the current settings to them. With remote control, you do not need to be near the photo light.
Flashes by category
It is worth separating the types of flashes, since some may not be suitable for a particular camera. In general, we can talk about three main options, which differ in both price and functionality.
Budget
Their undoubted advantage is their low price, as well as their small dimensions. These are ordinary photo flashes, which have very few control options, most likely, this is only power. Perhaps such a BB can be used to begin with, but you will soon grow beyond its limitations.
An example is the Nikon Speedlight SB-400. It is not expensive and, in principle, will suit all Nikon cameras. It is logical to use it with amateur cameras - d3100, d3200, or d3300, as well as d5100, d5200, d5000.
You only have one button at your disposal on and indicator. Here special regimes, except for auto and manual, no. In addition, it can only work with new lenses that provide autofocus. The range of the photo illuminator is small - only 21 meters. There is a rotation of the head, but in the subsequent model SB-300 it was increased from 90 to 120 degrees.
Semi-professional
A class of flashes that will work more adequately with mid-range cameras.
Here I would name Nikon d7100 and a flash for the Nikon Speedlight SB-600 or SB-700. The features of this and the second type of explosives are great possibilities. This includes a rotating head, an information screen, and control of power and lighting angle.
What's important is that you can now use a group of different flashes and experiment with lighting.
Professional flashes
Large, expensive and high quality.
What can you recommend for Nikon? Quite – Speedlight SB-910. The flash has a standard lamp and mount, a display, and a rotating head in all directions. And then things get interesting: the illumination angle varies at F from 17 to 200, exposure correction, several types of synchronization, and most importantly, an excellent guide number of 34 meters.
This also includes the Speedlight SB-5000.
The given flash models for SLR camera models do not indicate their limitations. You can use, for example, a professional flash with an entry-level Nikon D3100 DSLR camera.
If you don't quite understand your reflex camera, but I want to get the most out of it. Do you want to achieve excellent results in photography? And you understand that the instructions for the camera do not give the desired results, then the course is “” (if you have NIKON) or “ My first MIRROR"(if you have CANON), your lifebuoy. Study this video course from cover to cover, and you will notice the progress it has brought you. The right investment is an investment in self-education.
Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0— who has a NIKON camera.
My first MIRROR- who has a CANON camera.
All the best, readers! My blog is always open to you - come in, subscribe and invite your friends!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
No flash will ever replace a full-fledged studio lighting(although, when working in a studio with several external flashes, you can use the same lighting schemes). But it is the flash that allows you to obtain correctly exposed frames when there is a lack of light in reportage shooting conditions - primarily indoors. It also helps a lot when the lighting is sufficient, but incorrect, creating sharp and unsightly shadows - for example, on a bright summer day or in backlight.
Modern external flashes are extremely intelligent devices, capable of sufficiently high-quality illumination of the scene without the intervention of the photographer - independently determining all the necessary parameters. This is, of course, very good for amateurs who do not yet fully master the technology, and for professionals when working in harsh reporting conditions. But this is also bad because complex algorithms for estimating and adjusting parameters require close interaction between the flash and the camera.
Therefore, leading manufacturers of photographic equipment usually produce flashes for their cameras. So, for DSLRs, as well as some Canon compacts (for example, Canon PowerShot G12), a line of Canon SpeedLite flashes is offered. The line can be divided into amateur (budget), semi-professional and professional segments.
An amateur model, the Canon SpeedLite 270EX differs from the built-in flashes of DSLRs and compacts only in slightly higher flash power. And a large angle of incidence of light relative to the optical axis of the lens (due to the size of the flash), which makes it less likely to encounter and deal with such a problem as “red eye”.
Semi-professional - Canon SpeedLite 430 EX, Canon SpeedLite 430EX II. These flashes have a higher pulse power, which makes it possible to more effectively illuminate the photographed scene in difficult light conditions and to “reach” more distant objects. These flashes also have a movable head that can be rotated in vertical and horizontal planes. The movable head makes it possible to shoot in reflected light from walls or ceilings.
The professional Canon SpeedLite 580EX II, in addition to even greater power and larger head rotation angles, has the ability to “zoom” - adjusting the illuminated area to the field of view of the lens for a specific focal length. Another important difference is a significantly shorter recharge time for the next “blitz” and the ability to connect various external power supplies. Finally, the Canon SpeedLite 580EX II is housed in a durable, dust- and moisture-resistant housing.
In addition to those mentioned, Canon offers some special flashes. For example, Macro Ring Lite MR-14EX and Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX for macro photography, mounted on the lens.
In addition to “native” flashes for Canon, there are many models from third-party manufacturers on the market - Acmepower, Nissin, Sigma. All of them are often distinguished by greater functionality (for example, autozoom in semi-professional models) at the same or lower price than Canon flashes. Unfortunately, flashes from third-party manufacturers are often less reliable and efficient in operation solely due to “miscommunication” between the flash and the camera - certain modes (except, perhaps, TTL metering) may not work correctly or not work at all.
Metz flashes stand somewhat apart. Metz has been producing flashes for a long time and seriously, and incorrect (inevitable in some cases) work with individual camera models is more than compensated by the vastness of the model range, the abundance of various accessories, more flexible controls, unique opportunities and design features (such as, say, a second “eye” for foreground illumination).
When choosing a specific flash model, the main thing you need to pay attention to is the “guide number”. The flash “guide number” is the maximum distance in meters at which, at ISO 100 and f/1.0, you can get an object illuminated enough for correct exposure, essentially a measure of flash power. This maximum distance will decrease in proportion to the decrease in the relative aperture, and increase in proportion to the increase in light sensitivity. For a zoomed head, it will also depend on the dispersion angle.
Everything else: the angles of rotation of the head (in one or two planes, maximum values, number of positions), the presence of zooming (automatic, manual, absent), the capacitor charging time for the next pulse - as desired or necessary for specific tasks.
– maximum power. The guide number is the distance at which you can get a high-quality and correct frame with aperture 1 and sensitivity 100.
Also pay attention to TTL - a parameter that affects the determination of flash power depending on the exposure of the frame. Another important parameter flash - the presence of automatic zoom in it, which allows you to change the distance to the object without losing focus and providing better quality light.
If flash performance is important to you, for example if you are working out reportage photography– buy a flash from high speed recharging batteries.
More best option, suitable for a limited budget - semi-professional flashes. This flash is suitable for you if you are not involved in complex professional photography as a profession and a form of art, but want to get shots from memorable events and interesting places High Quality.
If your goal is to shoot reports, work in difficult conditions and make money from photography, purchase a professional flash with high power and a minimum recharge period. If you specialize in macro style photography, you will need a macro flash that works at a short focal length.
Video on the topic
note
How to choose a flash? This question often worries a novice photographer who has decided to buy a serious light source and is dissatisfied with the built-in flash. The built-in flash accessories and gadgets on the market are not real help, but just another way to make money.
An external flash gives the photographer enormous opportunities both for reportage photography and for staged photo shoots. But how to choose the flash that's right for you? In this article, we will talk about the most important characteristics of flashes that you need to pay attention to when purchasing, and also help you choose the flash you need.
Sources:
- Camera flash, selection and testing external flash
To make it work high quality photography In low light conditions, photography should only be done with a flash. There are so many different types of flashes, and some of them you can make yourself, for example, ring LED.
You will need
- Camera, 8 LED flashlights, self-adhesive tape.
Instructions
Measure the required length of Velcro tape: the length will be the diameter of the camera lens that will be pasted over, plus an additional two centimeters. Cut the required length of self-adhesive tape.
Cover the lens with Velcro tape, of course, without covering the lens glass.
Remove the protective layer from the surface of the Velcro tape.
Attach the flashlight keychains evenly over the surface of the adhesive tape.
Video on the topic
note
If you are not sure that you can combine two circuits (light synchronizer and flash), do not experiment! Seek professional help from a specialist.
Helpful advice
In the vastness global network You can find a diagram of a powerful photoflash. Add a light synchronizer circuit to the above project: thanks to this combination of two circuits, you will not need to run wires from the camera's synchronizer to its flash. It will be enough to place the flash somewhere nearby, and with a camera in your hands, move freely around the room in search of masterpieces. The flash and the camera will fire simultaneously: as soon as one turns on, the other will immediately work. The flash typically charges within one second. At the same time, you can always connect several more IFK120 channels if the power of one channel is not enough. “Increasing” the power will allow you to achieve multi-stage adjustment. Moreover, you can also use lamps that are much more powerful than IFK120, however, they will cost much more. And one more point that you should pay attention to is that during long-term operation the resistors may become overheated. To cool them, you can use conventional computer coolers that cool the internal components of the system unit. Such a cooler will receive power from a transformerless rectifier.
Sources:
- An article about how to make a flash camera.
Flash is widely used in photography. It is needed to create a powerful and mobile light source close to natural daylight. Thanks to the flash, you can photograph the subject in the dark, and also experiment with lighting, creating highlights and shadows in the photo.
Knowing the basics of photography using flash allows you to shoot any moving objects without blurring and with good contrast characteristics, as well as photograph in the dark. Flash is also recommended for filling in shadows in backlit situations. It works well with pictures against a window or a very light background.
Please note that flash photography will different results. For example, a straight line will create harsh, hard shadows, highlights on shiny surfaces, and a “cool” tone to the photo. And with reflected, you will get rid of highlights and shadows, getting a warm picture.
When using a flash, it is recommended to move it away from the camera. This will significantly reduce the risk of red-eye and create a more pleasant lighting effect. When using flash, you can use an umbrella as a reflective and diffuse surface. To do this, turn the flash head away and point it towards the umbrella (opposite the subject) to reflect the light towards the subject.
You can notice the difference in lighting when using the flash by pointing it towards the ceiling and walls. The disadvantages of flash include a small illumination area and flat light, which results in scary, ugly shadows, red eyes and other imperfections in the photo.
To avoid them, practice various flash techniques. For example, you can use flash to the ceiling. This is one of the most popular techniques. But for this you need the ceiling to be white and not too high.
To compensate for the lack of light reflected from the ceiling, attach a white reflector the size of a playing card to the flash. It will direct some of the light onto the subject and reduce the density of shadows in the photo. In some camera models, a special visor has been developed for this purpose, which acts as a reflector. A mini soft box for flash helps to achieve high-quality images at night. But the price for mini soft boxes is quite high.
With a built-in flash, you can attach a small mirror to it at an angle to diffuse the light. Shooting using direct flash light is advisable only as a last resort.
Video on the topic
27233 Improving your skills 0
Communication with the winner of one of ours, who received a prize for winning - a flash, prompted the idea of a gap in the lessons of the site's photo school: how and by what criteria to choose a flash. Of course, this lesson should have been placed in the course, but since they announced the end of publication of materials in this section, we are placing it in the “Improving Mastery” course. As they say: better late than never.
Almost everything modern cameras equipped with built-in photo flashes. But, as we already found out in the basics of working with flashes, they are of little use, there are no less “cons” than “pros”. Whereas an on-camera flash, an external flash mounted on a hot shoe (make sure your camera has one) is not only more powerful, but also allows you to use both direct and reflected light (since its “head” can be aimed up or turn to the side), highlight shadows or, for example, photograph with long-focus optics. Keeping in mind the varied needs of photographers, manufacturers produce a variety of flashes.
So, you are determined to buy a flash for your camera. And it is right! How to make the right choice? Which flash should you choose? These questions often bother a novice photographer who has decided to buy a serious light source and is dissatisfied with the built-in flash.
Brand companies producing flashes
Today's photographic equipment market offers a large number of different flashes from various manufacturers. Most companies, such as Nikon, Canon, Sony and others, that produce cameras produce their own “branded” flashes. This category is usually the first thing people pay attention to when choosing a flash.
But there are also several independent manufacturers such as Metz, Nissin or Sigma, as well as emerging Chinese manufacturers such as Yongnuo. The difference in price with branded ones may make you pay attention to this category. But before you buy this or that “non-native” flash, you need to make sure that it is suitable for your camera model. This is indicated in the flash labeling (for example, for Canon).
"Hot Shoe" Canon cameras and Nikon
It's important that the flash integrates with your camera's autoexposure system and includes other useful features. Flashes that are not compatible with your camera's hot head will not work.
Types of external flashes
Flashes come in different shapes and sizes, which can accommodate different genres of photography.
Camera-top flashes that are mounted on top of the camera directly on the hot shoe, above the viewfinder. These are the most common and popular flashes.
Ringflash- ring flashes, which are most often used by macro and fashion photographers. A ring flash concentrates light around the lens and eliminates shadows. It is usually placed directly on the lens and connected to the hot shoe via an interface device.
Twinflash- work on the same principle as ring flashes, highlighting the subject and eliminating shadows. You can attach additional flash units and rotate them around the lens.
Hammerhead- (hammer type) due to its power and range - this is a favorite flash wedding photographers and reporters. Attached to the side of the camera on a tripod thread via a bracket.
Choosing the right type of flash depends on your needs for the genre you're shooting.
Characteristics of flash units
1. Guide number. All flares are usually assessed by a guide number. HF is the maximum distance (in meters) from the flash to the subject being photographed at which a normally exposed image is obtained (depending on the aperture of your lens and the sensitivity of the matrix) and means the maximum energy of the light pulse of the flash.
If the passport of your flash indicates that the guide number is, for example, 38 at ISO 100, then this means that for widespread whale zoom lenses with a maximum aperture of 3.5 you will get a flash operating distance of 38/3.5 = 10, 8 meters. To increase this distance, it is necessary to increase the sensitivity of the ISO matrix, but to values at which there will be no increased noise.
2. Flash metering system. There are 3 ways to determine exposure when using flash.
1 - Manual mode. IN manual mode You decide what exposure parameters to set. For this purpose, special tables are used depending on the exposure depending on the flash power mode and the distance to the subject. Or change the power depending on the shooting results by making a correction, evaluating the result using the histogram. We will not go into details of this method, since it may only be needed in fairly rare cases of studio shooting.
2 - Automatic mode. In this mode, before the main pulse, the flash produces a series of very short pulses, almost invisible to the eye, the flash sensor analyzes the reflected signal and, based on the calculation, sets the operating mode to obtain the correct exposure. Everything happens very quickly and almost imperceptibly for the photographer. The advantage of this method is that it can be used with cameras of any type, including outdated models.
3 - Automatic TTL ("through the lens") mode. Just like in simple automatic mode, the flash produces a preliminary cascade of pulses, but the signal receiver is not located in the flash itself, but in the camera, after the lens. This is the most accurate method of exposure metering, since the light flux is analyzed after passing through the lens, i.e. this is exactly the light that creates the image on the matrix. The specific technical implementation of the automatic TTL mode in cameras of different brands is different, but the principle of operation is similar to that discussed. Plus TTL mode The point is that the flash works in automatic mode, and you do not make any special settings. The downside is that TTL flashes are more expensive.
Many modern flashes have all three modes, which expands the scope of their use for different cameras and shooting conditions.
3. Minimum recharge time- this is the period of time during which the flash will charge and be ready to shoot the next frame. The smaller this value, the better flash and it is more convenient to use.
4. Rotate the flash head in different planes. The most inexpressive shots are obtained with frontal lighting, so the ability to direct the flow of light in different directions is very useful property flashes.
5. The presence of a zoom flash reflector matches the angle of dispersion of the light flux from the flash with the angle of the lens' field of view. A very useful function, as it allows you to increase the distance to the subject when using zoom or interchangeable lenses with different focal lengths.
6. Availability of additional diffusers. Many manufacturers produce special light-diffusing devices for their flashes, which further eliminate the influence of harsh directional light and produce soft natural light.
7. Possibility of creating a lighting system from several flash units. Modern electronics make it possible to create a system of interconnected photoflashes, in which one is the master and, through its impulse, controls the rest of the slaves through special sensors built into them. On slave flashes, you can set the required flash power and thereby implement almost any system for illuminating an object, similar to studio light.
8. Availability LED backlight for shooting video. Recent flash developments have begun to include this convenient feature.
9. Dimensions and weight of flashes directly depend on the characteristics listed above. Agree that it is difficult to equip a compact flash with a large number of functions and batteries.
Other characteristics - the presence of a socket for connecting an external power source, the ability to shoot a clearly large number of frames, the quality of the flash display and the amount of information displayed on it - are not so important for the amateur, and we have not considered them. If necessary, you can easily deal with them.
And one last piece of advice on the topic. Before purchasing, read the instructions for the flash you are planning to purchase very carefully. A modern flash is a rather complex electronic device, with many functions and capabilities. Therefore, after carefully reading the user manual, you may discover many new and interesting things for yourself, and make your final choice.
For today, that’s all we wanted to tell you. Good luck with your choice and all the best photography!
In this article I will consider only the native Nikon Speedlight SB series flashes, which can operate in modern i-TTL mode.
Before purchasing, I advise you to think about whether it is needed at all. To do this, I advise you to read the materials in the article on the topic ‘ ‘. If buying a flash is justified, then Nikon provides the following external flashes:
| Flash | Weight, g | Zoom | Master | Slave | Backlight | V.Ch., m | A comment |
| SB-300 | 97 | 27mm, no zoom | No | No | No | 18 | The easiest Nikon flash. Very simple. Uses small AAA batteries, does not support FP. |
| 127 | 27mm, no zoom | No | No | No | 21 | A very simple flash. No FP mode. | |
| 226 | 24mm, no zoom | yes (only on older cameras) | There is | There is | 24 | A small flash without a display, but capable of a good set of basic functions. | |
| 300 | 24-85mm | No | There is | There is | 30 | Morally outdated amateur flash, good functionality for the money | |
| 360 | 24-120mm | There is | There is | There is | 28 | Lightweight functional flash. A very good option. I recommend. | |
| 350 | 24-105mm | There is | There is | There is | 38 | Powerful, but outdated professional flash. | |
| 425 | 17-200mm | There is | There is | There is | 34 | Good professional flash. | |
| 420 | 17-200mm | There is | There is | There is | 34 | Flagship model. One of the best | |
| SB-5000 | 420 | 17-200mm | There is | There is | There is | 34.5 | Flagship model. Best of its kind. |
| SB-R200 | 120 | 35mm, no zoom | No | There is | No | 10 | Can only work as a slave flash using , cannot be used on the camera. There is no display to control the flash. This flash is designed for macro photography. |
Zoom— flash head zoom limits, Master- opportunity remote control other flashes, Slave- ability to work in slave mode, Backlight— possibility of auxiliary illumination for automatic focusing, V.Ch — .
To be as brief as possible, the best external flashes are the flagship professional Nikon Speedlight SB-5000 and . The difference between and is not so great; I described in detail the differences between the 900 and 910 in the review. For professional photography There are no other native alternatives, since it is morally outdated, and they don’t produce it anymore. Flashes, 900, 910, unlike all the others from this article, have.
If you don’t need to shoot for days on end with a flash, then for more simple tasks flashes and . It's a pity, but they are no longer producing this flash; this flash is quite light and functional, but it cannot control other flashes using . The flash is quite cheap, but finding one new is very difficult. Unlike, the new one has a wider zoom, easier control via a large display and can work in Master mode.
And SB-300 are the simplest and the cheapest external flashes from Nikon. These flashes are very light, and therefore there will be no problems with them. weight distribution when used on amateur cameras by type, etc. These flashes are ideal for Nikon cameras Coolpix. True, with the SB-300 you won’t be able to experience all the advantages of working with an external flash, such as focus illumination, fast sync or remote control. Attention: Nikon SB-300 flashes and cannot be used in any way with non-chip lenses (lenses, etc.) and some cameras (the exact list is unknown).
Personal experience
I have used almost all Nikon flashes, they all have their own characteristics. IN Lately I have two flashes in my service: and . It can be a very good option for amateur and simple professional photography. If we abstract too much, then we have to choose from 900\910 and 700.
I think that for 2017 it is the best option in terms of price/quality.
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