Today it is no secret to anyone that any high-quality tripod is equipped with a head that meets the needs of the photographer. Only the cheapest tripods are sold immediately complete with a head, and they do not have a replaceable one.
The enemy industry offers many types of tripod heads, here are heads for shooting spherical panoramas, and video heads, and various other exotics, but still there are only two main types of tripod heads for photographers: a 3D head and a ball head.
In the 3D head, movement in three directions is controlled by three separate knobs:
And in the ball one, one handle is responsible for everything, fixing the ball, except that the horizontal movement is separately regulated.
Both of these types have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my deep conviction, the ball head has several times more disadvantages than advantages. But do not think that I am going to write it off for scrap without good reason.
A tripod is not always used only to prevent camera shake, or when shooting on long exposure, often a tripod is used exclusively for precise camera positioning, which is vital for carefully building a composition in both landscape and subject, or macro photography.
Often the photographer, having chosen the composition, takes a test shot, and then, without touching the tripod, evaluates what happened from the picture on the camera screen, and makes some changes, sometimes very minor. And here, more than ever, the opportunity provided by 3D heads to change each parameter separately, without touching the rest, turns out to be in place. To correct, for example, the horizon, it is enough to loosen the knob responsible for rotating the camera around the optical axis of the lens, and eliminate the obstruction. In this case, neither the rotation of the camera nor its tilt is guaranteed to change.
And when a photographer has the misfortune to work with a ball head, he has to deal with the fact that, having barely loosened the handle that fixes the ball, he releases all three degrees of freedom at once. In such a situation, for example, trying to slightly raise the camera, it is very difficult not to shift the frame a little to the left or a little to the right, or not to skew the horizon. It is because of this that working with a ball head turns into a real torment.
Here you are, shooting a cityscape, trying to compose the shot so that the wires do not go into the frame from above, and the verticals remain parallel. Of course, at the very moment when you perfectly aligned the horizon, cut the wires, and your buildings do not fall into the center of the frame, it suddenly turns out that a completely ugly telegraph pole climbed into the viewfinder on the right. If you had a 3D head, you would calmly release just one handle that controls the movement of the camera left and right, and with a slight movement of your hand would cut off the pillar, but with a ball head you are doomed to start all over again. And of course, by the time you finally got rid of the pole and left annoying wires behind the scenes, it suddenly turns out that you need to slightly, literally just a little bit, just a bit, correct the horizon.
Of course, having corrected the horizon, you suddenly find that the pillar has returned to its place. And then, when you carefully follow the horizon, you still get rid of the pole, you will certainly find that now you have the damned wires slightly visible at the top left. And you start all over again.
And if you also remember the basic law of shooting outdoors, which says that "interesting light escapes the faster the more beautiful landscape you shoot", then you can imagine how annoying all this fuss with a ball head is.
And you also need to take into account one small nuance - if you shoot, for example, with a medium format camera, or with a heavy telephoto lens, then all this fun is amplified several times.
And for those who want to imagine what it’s like to shoot macro with a ball head, I’ll just suggest imagining that all of the above problems are doubled, and you sweat for two hours over the most minimal restructuring of the frame composition. This is where you realize what a miracle of technical thought it is - an ordinary 3D head!
But I'm not suggesting right now to take a ball head, vindictively smash it with a hammer, and solemnly bury the remains in the backyard. In no case! Because the ball head still has several advantages that its 3D competitor will never have.
The first advantage is weight. Due to the simplicity of the design, most ball heads weigh much lighter than 3D heads of similar "load capacity". When you need to drag equipment on yourself, for example, to the mountains, this nuance is difficult to neglect.
The second advantage is size. And although here the gain may not be so obvious, but the one who at least once in his life walked a couple of kilometers over rough terrain, and carried a tripod in a case behind his back, feeling how the damn handles of the 3D head crash into his back through the fabric of the case, will not argue with me.
The third advantage is speed. Yes, in efficiency, a clumsy head with three handles cannot compete with a ball head, which needs only one movement to fix the camera. When you have to shoot with a 3D head some not even very mobile living creatures, continuously tracking the movements of the subject, you first get confused in these three pens for a long time, then you curse everything in the world, open the aperture, set ISO higher, and keep shooting handheld.
So each tool has its own use. I really hope that this text will help someone choose the best head for their tripod.
Everything related to tripods was considered - actually "tripod legs". Here we will talk about tripod heads. Just like interchangeable lenses for SLR / mirrorless cameras are designed to perform quite specific tasks, so tripod heads come in different types, have their own characteristics, and are used for different types of photo and video shooting.
On sale you can find tripods that are already equipped detachable tripod head. But there is a high probability that soon you will come to the need to replace it or add a different type of head. In this article, we'll take a look at some of the factors that go into choosing a tripod head, including budget, expected workload, use cases, and the nuances that go into shooting comfort.
Advice: On sale, there are also tripods with already built-in (non-removable) head. It is better to stay away from such products, since such solutions are usually cheap Chinese crafts of very dubious quality and convenience.
A novice amateur photographer who decides to purchase a tripod head and tries to approach the choice thoroughly can panic at the initial stage. Looking at all the wealth of choice, it will not be easy to understand what exactly is best suited for your goals.
Undoubtedly, for many, the first and main criterion will be budget. The range of prices for tripod heads is simply huge. You can find offers on the market for both $50 and $1500. First of all, you need to understand what you are paying money for. It is possible that for your tasks you can find very good solutions for 75-200 dollars, and not sell a kidney to spend a fortune on the most expensive device.
First, you should immediately separate the heads for photo and video shooting. Manufacturers' websites usually indicate ownership, but even if this is not the case, you can pay attention to certain features that determine modern look tripod heads for video shooting:
- The video heads are equipped with a long adjustment knob that allows you to operate the camera with one hand.
- The video heads are quite bulky and massive, as it is assumed that they can hang a bunch of additional equipment - an external monitor, microphone, follow-focus systems, etc.
- They are "sharpened" for the possibility of smooth movement of the camera in one specific plane - horizontal OR vertical. It is "or" and not "and", since the video sequence is not characterized by a quick change in the direction of the plan - smooth panning in one plane is much more important.
And the main inconvenience of using a video head in photography is that this very control knob prevents you from bringing your face closer to the camera in order to look into the viewfinder. The handle will simply rest against the shoulder or chest.
Tripod head types and options
Let's start with the fact that the tripod heads are fastened to the tripod by means of a screw connection. There are two standards for such connections - 1/4 and 3/8 inches. Usually, if the head is attached by means of a 1/4 connection, then the manufacturer additionally puts a special adapter (tripod nut) into the kit by 3/8.
An important criterion that you should pay attention to is (usually indicated by the manufacturer). It indicates how much equipment weight can be fixed on the head so that the whole structure remains balanced: if you "load" more than the permissible norm, the system will "fall over" and the risk of tripod overturning when manipulating the camera will greatly increase.
Main types of photographic tripod heads: ball(including - pistol) And pan-tilt(including - 3D And cardan). In addition, there may be multifunctional combinations of the above heads, or vice versa, very narrowly focused specialized solutions that are difficult to attribute to the first or second type. We will consider their features below, but there is one more point that you should pay attention to when choosing a tripod head: How is the camera attached to it??
There are two main types of mount - direct mount on a tripod head and mount via quick release tripod platform. Quick-release platform (in English - Quick Release) is one of the most important elements of the mounting system, which allows you to instantly remove the camera from the tripod and also quickly return it back. In some situations, it is critical to quickly remove the camera and continue shooting "handheld", so I strongly recommend using heads with this mounting system.
Unfortunately, there is no common standard for quick-detachable pads for marketing reasons, manufacturers (who cares) invent their own fastener systems, and pads of different heads are often not compatible. In the amateur tripod segment, these are usually various types of rectangular or square platforms with a trapezoidal extension from top to bottom, which are inserted into slot mounts and clamped with a cam clamp.
Examples of quick release pads. Left - slot mount, right - rail Arca-Style.
But there are also standardized solutions. The most common is the rail fastening of platforms such as arca-style developed by the company Arca-Swiss. Its base is a trapezoidal plate 38 mm wide. It slides into the groove on the tripod head and is tightly fixed along the entire length with a special clamp. It's open professional standard coming from the video. Some manufacturers of photographic heads and tripods use it for the compatibility of different equipment.
Advice: If you are just starting to assemble your system, then I highly recommend stopping at it - all components, subsequently, can be made interchangeable.
Please note: in addition to the usual platforms (in the form of a plate), there is another variety called L Plate. This is an L-shaped bracket with two Arca-style tripod mounts that can be mounted on a tripod head in both vertical and horizontal positions. The advantage of this solution is obvious: there is no need to turn the tripod platform with the camera into a vertical position, violating the center of gravity and risking an unreliable design (especially if the camera with the lens is heavy and the tripod is light). You just need to remove the camera and fix the L-Plate in a vertical position. In general, the thing is very convenient, so I recommend getting it!
An example of mounting the camera on a tripod head in a horizontal (left) and vertical (right) position using the L-Plate.
And the last thing: the platform should fit snugly against the camera body, not rotate and be very firmly fixed in the tripod head, without requiring any extra extra effort for this. In addition, the QR system must have "foolproof" - a double lock (or other security system) that serves to prevent accidental ejection of the camera in case you forgot or did not fix the platform well enough on the tripod head.
The red dotted line indicates examples of double locks on tripod heads that prevent accidental camera release.
Choosing the Right Tripod Head
Choosing the "right" tripod head is like choosing the "right" lens. Price matters here, but the biggest price tag doesn't mean the best fit for your needs.
Ball head:
This is perhaps the most common and, at the same time, the most compact type of tripod head, which is convenient for use in most photographic tasks. Structurally, it is a swivel joint consisting of two parts. One is a ball with a platform for mounting a camera fixed on it, the second is a base specific shape in which the ball is rotating. The ball inside the base is fixed with a special clip.
An example of a "simple" ball stand Novoflex heads Ball NQ - reliable, but with minimal additional features.
There are many types of ball heads. The simplest classic ball heads have one clamp that securely fixes the inner ball. More advanced solutions are equipped with several controls that, in addition to fixing the ball, also allow you to adjust the force of the ball shift and horizontal panning.
There are two main structures - central the location of the ball and displaced from the center. Center ball heads provide a more stable design - especially when heavy equipment is installed. But heads with an off-center ball usually allow a greater degree of freedom in camera position. It is also worth noting that for ball heads - size matters. The larger the ball, the more accurately you can position the camera, especially if you plan to do subject or macro photography. The main advantage of ball heads is the ability to change the camera position very quickly in any plane. No other type of tripod heads will give you such efficiency.
"The pinnacle of engineering" - a high-tech, and very expensive ball head with huge amount additional features.
Pistol head:
In fact, this is just one of the variations of the ball head. But if when using the ball head to control the camera, you need both hands - with one you hold the camera, and with the other you loosen or fix the ball, then here all the manipulations can be done with one hand - like a joystick. On the handle is a mechanism for fixing the position of the camera. Pressed the "trigger" - you can change the position, released - the position of the camera is fixed. Naturally, good pistol heads allow you to fine-tune the performance by adjusting the bias force, the angle of the pistol grip and the maximum allowable tilt positions, as well as the control of the pan mode. As with a ball head, size matters. The longer the handle and the larger the ball, the more comfortable.
Pan/tilt head:
The main purpose of this type of tripod heads is to provide the possibility of smooth and precise rotation of the camera in a certain plane. There are several main subtypes: 3D ( or triaxial),2D (biaxial) And cardan.
Triaxial (3D) head:
This type of tripod head actually came from the video. It is a system of clips and clamps that can be adjusted independently of each other, allowing you to finely change the parameters of camera movement in one specific plane - horizontally or vertically, as well as change the angle of inclination. Unlike ball heads, here you can set the level for both the vertical and horizontal axis. And having fixed, for example, the horizon and the angle of inclination - clearly change the plan in the horizontal plane. Their main disadvantage is significantly less efficiency in work, since you need to set three clamps, and not one (as in ball joints). 3D heads in more convenient, for example, for landscape photographers, for whom a clearly set horizon and smooth panning are more important than the speed of setting up a tripod.
2D (biaxial) head:
This is a stripped-down version of the three-axis head, in which there is no camera angle adjustment. It is only possible to change the plan horizontally, or up and down wiring.
Cardan head:
In English-language sources there is a special name - " gimbal head". This type, in fact, is a 2D head, the design of which is based on gimbal suspension (detailed information from Wiki-).
These are prefabricated overall devices with no less "overall" price tag. They can have an L-shaped and U-shaped design (one or two holders). Such tripod heads are mainly used by photographers shooting wildlife and sporting events. Professional "wiring photos" of predators chasing prey or flying birds on sites like national geographic , racing cars at auto races or running athletes - all such scenes were filmed with the help of gimbal tripod heads. Their key advantages are the ability to smoothly "lead" a fast-moving subject, and the ability to mount very large and heavy lenses.
Mounting a camera with an overall long-focus lens on a gimbal tripod head.
But cardan heads have their own characteristics. First, since it is a stabilizing device, it must be properly configured before use. Moreover, set it up exactly for the combination of the camera with the lens that will be installed. Decide to change the camera or lens - the system will have to be reconfigured. This is due to the fact that the system must be carefully balanced and "hang" in a horizontal position, and not fall back or forward. Secondly, working with such a head does not imply a rigid fixation of the camera for static shooting (as with other types of heads). The whole idea is to allow you to smoothly track a flying bird or other fast moving object thanks to the system's ultra-smooth motion.
In addition, it is worth dwelling on several less common and more highly specialized types of tripod heads that can be found in the offers of manufacturing companies.
Gearheads:
In English-language sources there is a special name - " gear head". As the name implies, gear mechanisms are used to change the position of the camera (detailed information from Wiki -). They allow you to position the camera in any of the planes with high accuracy. At the same time, nothing needs to be additionally fixed, just "twisted" the position and that's it - the gear mechanism itself will not move anywhere. The heads are ideal for macro photography and architectural photography, for example. In fact, gear heads are very slow and precise 3D heads for thoughtful slow-paced shooting.
Tilt Head:
It can only rotate in one vertical plane and is designed exclusively for use with monopods.
Level head:
This device helps in leveling the camera, regardless of the terrain. It avoids the need to "adjust" the tripod legs on uneven ground, where there is a risk of destabilizing the tripod. It is mainly used for shooting stitched panoramas.
At the end of the article, I would like to give a few final tips for choosing a tripod head:
- The tripod head should fix the camera clearly and securely in the desired position (with the exception of cardan heads, read above), nothing should hang out, play or "slide".
- Always pay attention to material and work of fasteners is the foundation of the foundations. In cheap tripod heads, they often either do not work very well initially, or they become loose very quickly and become unusable. Before you compromise between price and quality, evaluate what is more expensive for you: save on a tripod head, and in return get a bunch of spent nerves, or sit on bread and water, save up the right amount and buy a quality item that will faithfully serve for a long time. years. There is nothing worse than bringing blurry frames from an important shoot - it will be impossible to fix them.
- Consider system balance. It is absurd to take a light small tripod and a heavy massive head to it.
- Always pay attention to maximum allowable loads tripod and head, and try not to overload them.
- Before you buy a tripod head, try to test different types in photo shops. Other people's opinion is good, but you may develop your own specific tactile preferences: someone likes cam clamps, and someone likes collets, etc.
I hope this article will help you with the choice and answer some of the questions that arose in the process of choosing a tripod head.
And as a bonus - below is a list of tripod head manufacturers (note that not everything is sold in our latitudes). Italic font companies that specialize in the production of professional video heads are indicated:
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In the previous article, we looked at aspects that are important when choosing a tripod. Today, we will discuss, probably, its most important detail - the tripod head, or, as photographers call it, the “head”. A good head is not inferior in price to a tripod, and quite often, professional, highly focused tripod heads are even more expensive.
Choosing the right head is not only about convenient shooting later on. Absence certain functions, makes some types of photography completely impossible. Therefore, the heads are divided into types, depending on the purpose, which determines their design:
By the name, it immediately becomes clear that the main structural element of this head is a spherical hinge. Thanks to him, you can quickly move the camera in all directions, and you can do it in several planes at the same time. The position is fixed using a single screw, or a latch, which actually has two positions: either the camera moves freely along all axes, or it is rigidly fixed. However, this freedom of movement is also a disadvantage. It is very inconvenient to shoot with such a head, for example, panoramas, where you need to move only in one plane, without shifting in other planes. It will also be inconvenient for such a head to shoot scenes in which the exact composition of the frame is very important: it is inconvenient to firmly fix the camera with your hand, while clamping the hinge, and even so that the camera does not move.
In addition, as a rule, ball heads are designed for light cameras. Such heads are very convenient for video filming, where the speed of movement is more important.
3
D-head. This type of head allows you to adjust the position of the camera in three planes, independently of each other. Due to the wide range of this type of heads, they are the most common. A separate hinge is responsible for movements in each of the planes. Accordingly, and structurally, such a head is more complicated, respectively, and more expensive. Separate adjustment knobs for moving the camera along one of the planes will allow you to accurately compose the frame, with such a head it is convenient to shoot circular panoramas. Optionally, there may be degree marks and a water level, again, for the convenience of shooting panoramas and precise installation of the camera in a strictly horizontal position. In addition, the camera platform can be tilted up to 90 degrees to quickly change position when shooting landscapes or portraits.
panoramic heads. They are a more highly specialized version of the previous type of heads. Their main difference is a more accurate possibility of moving the camera strictly along one axis, which allows you to shoot not only circular panoramas, but also spherical, cubic, cylindrical ones. For cylindrical panoramas, in addition to such a head, a rail platform is also used.
Macroheads. These are the most complex heads in their structure. Their distinguishing feature is very precise, literally micron adjustment of the camera position. Moreover, the camera moves not only to the sides, but also back and forth. The fact is that when the subject is comparable in size to the size of the matrix, and the depth of field is very, very small, it is very difficult to achieve accurate focusing only with the focusing ring. Therefore, focusing is “finished” by painstakingly moving the camera in millimeters.
Results. Don't skimp when choosing a head for your tripod. Good heads are very durable. You can change multiple tripods by using the same tripod head with them.
For beginners, I would not advise starting with a narrowly focused option. Buy something of high quality, but versatile, depending on your temperament, preferences in subjects and types of shooting. Most of your needs will be met by a functional 3D head. If you are going to shoot mostly dynamic scenes, reports - take a closer look at the ball head.
Well, I have a window between endless trips, so let's talk again about what helps us shoot good shots. It does help. Yes, the photographer makes the shot, but even the most successful shooting scene can be killed with bad tools ... Today we have the second part of a photo-iron article dedicated to tripod heads and mounting platforms.
Last time, or rather about what is commonly called "tripod legs". Another equally important component of a stable system is the tripod head and its accompanying platform. It would seem, take the heaviest and most solid, and figs would be with him - the rest will follow? In fact, everything is not so clear. It is sometimes more difficult to choose the "top" of a system than its bottom.
Attaching one to the other
With this, everything is quite simple. The head is attached to the "legs" with a 1/4" or 3/8" screw. In this area, everything is standardized and we can say that 95% of our tripod legs and heads are compatible with each other (the remaining 5% are non-removable heads, which are equipped with the cheapest plastic crafts; they are evil and are not considered in this article). If a 1/4 mount is included in the kit, the manufacturer usually supplements it with a special adapter (tripod nut), where there is a larger thread on one side and a smaller one on the other.
Today we will talk about two components of the "top": tripod head and mounting platform, which the camera is attached to this head. The "head" has two functions: changing the orientation of the camera in space and fixing the entire structure, and the tighter this fixation, the less "shake" will fall on your flash drives. The most important criteria for selection, from which we will proceed in the analysis:
Head type (triaxial / 3D, ball, suspension, handle, rail). We will talk about the two most popular - 3D and ball.
- number of swivel joints;
- material of manufacture;
- reliability of clamps;
- speed of re-positioning;
- Possibility of panning (rotation around its own axis).
1. Triaxial (or 3D) head
Roughly speaking, this is not a photo solution at all, but a video solution. It is important when shooting video smooth transition between plans, and a long handle is best suited for this. A video camera needs less perfect fixation (the operator rarely shoots static shots), while 10-15 seconds of exposure is the norm for a photographer.
From such a construct, the photographer has more problems than good. A huge number of joints quickly leads to the appearance of backlash, and the whole structure trembles under the camera, although, it seems, all the screws are clamped. Problem areas:
A- vertical bar clamp responsible for moving up and down. It loosens up very quickly;
B- horizontal stabilization screw. Creates backlash due to the primitiveness of the clamp;
C- vertical stabilization knob. In the twisted position, it is designed to fix the camera, but copes with this poorly;
D- horizontal deflection screw. Only the holder of the title Mr. Steel Fingers, and only a real Buddhist can set the horizon with it ...
E- pad slot clamp(more on them below). Does not provide rigid fixation of the platform. Cheap and impractical solution.
The quality of the material also leaves much to be desired. Usually it's some kind of composite crap that looks like plastic. Working with such a head is a real torment: first you need to twist one screw, then another, then straighten the horizon with the third, then return to the second-first-and-so-on...
2. Ball head
This type of construction is a metal "glass" with a ball joint inside and several handles for adjustment (we will not consider methods of fixing the ball). The main advantages: 1) ease of use 2) speed of positioning 3) small size of the structure. Here is an example of a basic head from Gitzo with two fixation points: 1) ball and 2) positions for horizontal wiring. More expensive (and more preferred) solutions are bundled 3) shear force regulator ball. When choosing, it is important to remember that size matters; the larger the diameter of the inner ball, the more accurate the positioning of the camera.
As my friend Laptev says, "you can't buy light." When shooting, seconds often count, and you just can't afford to fuss around with a tripod. From the experience of many years of working with groups, I can say that owners of triaxial heads build a frame several times longer than owners of ball heads.
Verdict: forget the triaxial nightmare. All further examples in this article are based on the "ball" type.
Choice of tripod platform
Quick Release Platform - essential element fastening system. The Quick Release system allows you to instantly release the camera from the legs of the tripod and quickly return it back. The ideal platform should fit snugly against the camera body, not rotate and be firmly fixed in the tripod head, without requiring additional effort. There are two types of clamps currently in use:
1. C open channel based on Arca-Swiss rail standard. In this case, the platform slides into the groove and is tightly clamped along the entire length of the rail. It is made of hard alloys (usually based on anodized aluminum). Arca-Swiss is open international standard for professional equipment, and if you are just building your system, then I highly recommend stopping at it.
2. A whole family of slot clips. The most common option for the amateur market segment. The platform is inserted into a special slot and fixed with a cam lock that presses it at one point. There are a great many of these "slot" incarnations. The most famous type of such a platform is 200PL-14 by Manfrotto, 3/4". Most budget decisions are completed with similar "squares".
A hallmark of the bad slot clamps- a screw cap screwed with a coin or a screw "eye" made in the form of a thick wire bracket. Such a platform does not hold well in the nest, from time to time it "floats" and unscrews. Avoid slot clips if you care about the result, not the process, in shooting.
A- locking cam, which only pretends to fix the pad;
B- area, which tends to gradually loosen up (especially when shooting vertical frames) and wag the owner's nerves;
C- Evil eye screw, about which it was written a little higher ...
Optimal head
OK. He scolded everyone. What elements should be in good ball head?
1. Horizontal shift control. The ability to rotate the camera around its axis is simply irreplaceable when shooting panoramas.
2. Ball shear control. It sets the softness and smoothness of positioning;
3. Ease and speed in management;
3. No camera sagging after fixation. In the product passport is registered Weight Limit loads, when buying, proceed from the technique that you work with.
4. Bubble level (optional). I do not use it at work (I prefer the viewfinder), but many colleagues will object to me.
Which brand to choose - decide for yourself. Gitzo, Manfrotto, Kirk, Benro - there are a lot of them on the market. But if you want to have perfect iron components - take the products of the company Really Right Stuff. This the best that exists today in the world market(Especially for the paranoid: this post is not paid). Unfortunately, it is impossible to buy their products in Russia. And in general, there are only two places of official sale in the world: on the manufacturer's website and in the New York photo monster B&H. Today I have two heads of their production in my working arsenal: RRS BH-40 And RRS BH-25. I plan to take RRS BH-55(on the title frame of the article) - it's just a work of art! Pictured below is RRS BH-30 LR.
Tripod L-Plate
With a regular platform, everything is more or less clear: you fixed the camera at the bottom and you are waiting for photo-happiness. The situation becomes more complicated if you shoot vertical shots. In this case, the camera is rotated 90 degrees and the platform is already on the side, the center of gravity changes, the entire load is concentrated on the point of attachment to the carcass, and it begins to "nod off". There is nothing worse than bringing smeared footage from a trip! There is a solution and it is called L Plate. I don’t know who originally came up with this thing, but God grant him health and a good husband. It has its own for each camera, under Nikon D4 (version from Really Right Stuff) it looks like this:
The L-Plate is an anodized aluminum bracket with two tripod mounts (A and B). L-Plate is tightly screwed to the camera with a hexagon and literally bites into its base. Working with it is simple to idiocy: I wanted to make a vertical frame - I rearranged the camera with another mount. It is a must to have in the arsenal!
And finally my personal experience work with Manfrotto
The company's products are a good option in terms of price / quality ratio for both beginners and advanced amateurs. I had three Manfrott heads:
1. Ball 054 series with 3/4" pad. A good option for a beginner. Lightweight, compact and relatively inexpensive. Cons: the same 3/4 "platform that kills all living things and gives out additional shake. In addition, the small diameter of the inner ball significantly reduces positioning accuracy when setting the shooting angle. Working with a telephoto lens at 70-200 increases the jitter of the structure.
2. Joystick 222 series with 3/4" pad. The solution for tough photographers. The head is made in the form of a fighter pilot handle with a trigger, which is responsible for the positioning of the structure. After an hour of work, you realize that you bought an expander. Those who did not put this masochism on the shelf during the first week are able to bend nickels with their fingers ... But seriously, the tightening force regulator very quickly stopped regulating anything (some kind of low-quality, dust-collecting grease was obviously flooded there), but about the platform 3/4" already mentioned above.
3. Professional ball 468 series with RC4 platform. The top solution from our Italian friends with the RC4 slot. Heavyweight dream. An ominous 1.2 kg of iron sobers up very quickly. But it's okay, extra iron in the backpack can be tolerated. Inside the head lives a Teflon ball coated with a thick lubricant. In January 2008, while filming in -40 degrees below zero in central Canada, this lubricant changed its properties; the screws stopped fixing the ball and the whole structure blew up with the lens down. In the heat, the system "came to life", but the sediment remained. The ambush opened where no one expected it. The screw, marked by the manufacturer as R468.20, is responsible for fixing the ball (I will never forget this marking!). An ordinary screw with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm and a rubber knob for ease of operation. So, due to the ill-conceived design, it tends to get out and get lost. The first time this trouble happened on the Annapurna track in Nepal. I come to the dawn shoot, set up - there is no screw, and without it the head does not hold. Looked all over and couldn't find it. To say that I swore - to say nothing. The selection of a similar screw did not give anything: the manufacturer reduced the angle of inclination of the thread to the axis so that none of the analogues found was suitable. Fig with him - I ordered a new screw from Italy - $ 73 + shipping. Three months later, he also disappeared, although a couple of times I still picked him up on the last turn! I didn’t wait for the third screw - I put the 468th head on the shelf and didn’t touch it anymore ...
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