So, you are about to buy a new camera. How to properly check a camera before purchasing so that you don’t get a defective one, and how to avoid becoming a victim of deception? In this article we will look at the basic rules for checking cameras. We will mainly talk about models with interchangeable optics. However, most of the advice will also be valid for checking compacts.
Getting ready to buy
To commit successful purchase, it is better to prepare at home for going to the store to buy a camera.
Be clear about the model. Make sure it is not outdated and still relevant. Study the information about it on the manufacturer’s website: have newer models of the same class come out with best characteristics? Study customer reviews about the selected camera on the Internet. Finding reviews is very easy. Just open any search engine and type “Camera such and such reviews” in the search bar.
Where to buy a camera? To minimize the risk of fraud when purchasing, it is best to buy a camera in stores whose reputation you do not doubt. You should not buy where it is suspiciously cheap. Most likely, they sell goods from “gray” batches that do not have an official guarantee, or even used items under the guise of new ones.
Don’t expect sales assistants in a regular store to really help you choose something. It is important to understand that their task is not to find you the best best camera, but to make the most profitable deal.
The best option store - manufacturer's company store. Here you will definitely not have any problems with the warranty. The sellers are professional and always ready to help.
If you are new to photography and do not yet have a very good understanding of photographic equipment, you should not buy used cameras. It is quite difficult to check them; they may have many hidden defects. If you decide to buy a used camera, you need to check its mileage: how many shots have already been taken with it. We will talk about this below.
When checking a camera, it is better to have an understanding of its controls. Download the instructions from the manufacturer’s website and study them. See how shooting modes are selected, how shutter speed, aperture and light sensitivity are adjusted, how to enable burst shooting, how autofocus is turned on and off, how image quality is adjusted, and how focus points are selected. If you are a beginner and do not yet know anything about shooting parameters, it is better to invite someone with you to the store who can help you set up the camera for a complete check.
Keep in mind that cameras are almost always sold without a memory card included. Make sure you have a memory card with you.
It is more convenient to check the quality of test images on a large screen. If possible, take your laptop with you to view images on it.
Checking the camera
So, we're in the store. In front of us is a box with the desired camera. How to check the camera yourself? Let's figure it out.
Visual inspection
Inspect the box: there should be no mechanical damage. Find the warranty card in the box. Check that this is the official warranty card of the manufacturer, and not a guarantee from a third-party service center, as is often the case with unofficial “gray” supplies of photographic equipment. Check the serial numbers on the packaging, camera and warranty card. Check the package. There should be no traces of use on the equipment. Everything should be wrapped in bags. There should be no fingerprints on anything, much less scratches. If traces of use are found, do not listen to the seller’s comments, but simply request another copy without traces of use.
If you buy a camera with a lens, check the lens lenses for scratches or dust inside. Install the lens on the camera. There should be no play: the lens must be fixed tightly.
Testing camera mechanics
After the visual inspection, we move on to testing the camera.
Install the battery and memory card, turn on the camera. If the battery is discharged to zero, it is worth charging it at least a little. Take a few test shots in automatic mode. Check if the built-in flash is working.
Check operation during continuous shooting. Turn on continuous shooting, hold down the shutter button: the camera will continuously take pictures while the button is held by the photographer. Take a small series of pictures - five or six. This way we will check the functionality of the camera shutter.
Checking the camera for defective pixels
It is important to check the camera sensor for dead and hot pixels. What are dead and hot pixels? You may have already encountered them on computer monitors. A dead pixel is a non-working element of the camera matrix. In photographs it will appear as a bright dot in all photographs. A hot pixel will not be noticeable under standard shooting conditions, but when shooting long exposure or at high ISO it will turn into a dot of color in the photo. The appearance of a certain number of hot pixels is acceptable when shooting at high ISO values and when using multi-second shutter speeds, but it is a warning sign if they appear already at fairly low ISO values and when using shutter speeds around 1/60 s.
How to check your camera for dead and hot pixels? Here is a detailed algorithm of actions:
Cover the camera lens with a cap. Shooting must be done with the lid closed to get a black frame. On a black background, all defective pixels will be clearly visible.
Turn on your camera's shutter priority mode (S).
Set the image quality to JPEG at maximum quality.
- Disable autofocus: it will not allow you to take a picture with the lens cap closed.
- Set the shutter speed to 1/25 sec and minimum ISO. Typically this is ISO 100.
Take a photo. Examine it at 100% scale (this is important: otherwise the defects will not be visible). If extra dots appear on the black field of the photo, you should refuse to purchase this copy of the camera.
Now let’s complicate the task for the camera: lengthen the shutter speed to three seconds (on the camera screen it can be indicated as 3”) and raise the ISO to 800 units.
- Let's study the resulting frame. It is possible that hot pixels will appear on it: multi-colored dots. If there are one or two of them, it’s okay. If the bill goes into the tens, you should refuse to purchase this copy of the camera.
Examples of test images. Such images must be obtained by shooting with the lid closed at the above parameters. They must be viewed at 100% magnification to see the difference.
View illustrations in full scale.
By the way, defective pixels can be not only on the camera’s matrix, but also on its screen. Look closely at the camera's LCD screen to see if they are there.
Back focus and front focus. What it is?
This is an autofocus error when the lens systematically focuses not at the specified point, but behind it (back focus) or in front of it (front focus). If you focus incorrectly, there may be no sharpness at the point you were focusing on. Only DSLR cameras have back and front focus. Compact and mirrorless cameras do not suffer from this defect, because their focusing system is designed differently. Back and front focus are not so scary for owners of top-end DSLR models: Nikon D7000 level or higher. In these cameras, you can fine-tune autofocus through the menu.
How to check the camera and lens for back and front focus?
Keep in mind:
Only a specialized service center can accurately diagnose the presence or absence of front and back focus. By the way, manufacturers do not consider it a defect. In a service center, autofocus can be easily adjusted.
It is important to understand that in practice, the photographer almost always “misses” with focusing (you also need to be able to focus correctly), while the camera does everything correctly. Therefore, if you systematically get blurry shots, think about whether you are handling the device correctly.
If you buy a camera complete with a lens that has a low aperture (for example, “whale” lenses 18-55 mm with aperture F/3.5-F5.6), then the presence or absence of front or back focus is unlikely to work notice both in the store and during further photography. Due to the large depth of field, possible focusing errors are leveled out. So owners of devices with “kit” lenses (with which the devices are sold as a set) should not worry about the problem of back and front focus.
However, if you buy a camera with a fast lens that requires greater focusing accuracy, you can check it for your own peace of mind as follows.
To do this, we just need to photograph some object with small details at an angle of 45 degrees. The test is best performed in natural daylight.
Let's set up the camera: set the mode to “A”, set the aperture to the openest. ISO can be set to “auto”.
Autofocus must be turned on.
Let's select a central focus point.
Let's select an object for shooting: it can be a piece of paper or a box with some letters, a newspaper, a ruler or a special test target.
Let's focus the central point on a predetermined place. It is important to remember exactly where you focused. In the case of a test target, it is necessary to focus strictly on the place intended for this. Usually this place says “Focus here”. We will use a sheet of paper in a square, drawing a straight line in the center of it. This is what we will focus on.
Let's take a few shots, about a dozen. We strictly make sure that the focusing point is exactly where we need to focus. Please note: Once the camera has focused, it cannot be moved forward or backward. After all, if the distance between the subject and the camera changes even by a millimeter, the focusing will be lost and the test will not be accurate. If you suspect that the camera is still making a mistake with focusing, take a few more test shots to make sure that the error appears systematically.
Let's study the pictures: if the focus on most frames of the series turned out to be exactly at the point on which we focused, then everything is in order. If the focus in all pictures has shifted forward or backward from this point, then the autofocus is missing.
How can you make sure that the camera you are selling is new and not used? How to see the mileage of a camera?
There are often cases when, under the guise of new equipment, unscrupulous sellers sell used equipment: display samples, devices returned by buyers. If you have suspicions that the camera being sold to you is not new, or you have deliberately decided to buy a used camera and want to evaluate its quality, it is worth checking the number of frames captured on the camera. In case of new camera their number should be close to zero. In the case of used equipment, the higher the mileage, the worse the overall condition of the device and the more you can reduce its price when bargaining with the seller.
So, how can you see how many frames have already been taken on the camera? In the case of Canon cameras, checking the mileage is quite difficult: you will have to connect the camera to a computer and use special programs such as EOSinfo or the eoscount.com web application; here you need to study the issue separately for each camera model. In the case of Nikon devices, everything is much simpler. Just open any test image from the camera you are studying and look at the EXIF data. It is important that the image you are studying is taken in Jpeg. You should not edit the test image in graphic editors: this way you can lose the necessary data. EXIF is shooting information written to a photo file. How to view EXIF data? Brief information from EXIF can be viewed in many programs, but we need to display detailed information. It is convenient to do this through web services. For example, through this regex.info/exif.cgi. Let's just upload the tested image there and the service will show us the EXIF of this frame. We are interested in the “Shutter Count” column. It will record how many times the shutter was fired.
Manufacturers declare the operating life of the camera shutter: how many times a given shutter model can operate on average before its operating life is exhausted. This figure is very average: nothing prevents the shutter from working twice or three times longer forever. However, only by it can we judge the overall reliability of the shutter and, in general, the entire contents of the camera as a whole. Of course, the more serious the device, the longer the life of its shutter.
In the case of amateur cameras, the shutter life is usually about 50-100 thousand operations. More advanced models have around 100-150 thousand operations. And professional equipment has more than 150 thousand. If you buy a used camera and see that its mileage is close to the stated shutter life, then most likely such a camera will not last long and will soon need repairs.
How to choose a camera for a novice photographer: Canon or Nikon, professional, SLR, digital? Camera, lens and other gadgets - for better photos.
How to learn to take photographs? First of all, purchase " tutorial" — digital reflex camera. How to choose a DSLR for a beginning photographer? How much could such a camera cost and what characteristics should it have? Tips from a professional photographer.
It is very difficult to buy something that you are not very good at. If you don’t have anyone to ask for advice, you don’t trust sellers, and reviews frighten you with an abundance of incomprehensible terms, then this page is for you! But even if you already have a camera, here I will tell you what everyone who is going to shoot with a DSLR should know, and not in automatic mode, when the camera itself adjusts the parameters for shooting. Often, it does this not entirely successfully: with such settings, you risk getting “flat” photographs devoid of artistic value. We strive for more, don't we?
Canon and Nikon against each other and other cameras
If you have not yet bought a SLR camera, but are planning to do so, then get ready to take part in the battles of the eternal photographic war between the two most famous brands professional photographic equipment - Canon and Nikon. Fortunately, no photographers were physically harmed in this war, but the fighting continues. Any owner Canon cameras or Nikon is sure that its camera is the best.
When photographers who are unfamiliar with each other often look at the camera first and only then look at their colleague’s face.
Of course, there are also supporters of less popular brands, such as Sony or Panasonic Lumix. But there are significantly fewer of them, since SLR cameras are far from the only and, of course, not the primary line of production of these companies. Buying a camera from a “non-core” company is the same as buying shoes under the brand of a company specializing in clothing production.
Priority in any business is always given to the main product or service. For a clothing company, shoes are most likely just a nice addition, which is not always of the proper quality, but is quite affordable. In the case of cameras, the matter is further complicated by the fact that for relatively unpopular cameras there is much less accompanying equipment on sale than for cameras with a big name. This somewhat reduces your ability to develop your photography skills. And in general, it’s nice to see many different gadgets in stores that are suitable for your camera.
So if you haven’t bought a camera yet, but are just trying it on, it’s better to choose a wide famous brand. But if you're already the proud owner of a camera—and it's not Nikon or Canon—don't worry. I will teach you how to make the most of its capabilities, as well as minimize associated costs (we will talk more about the secrets and tricks of saving money in photography).
In any case, at the stage of choosing a camera, try not to read the Internet forums of “canonists”, “nikonists” and other “ists” and do not believe those who foam at the mouth to prove absolute advantages favorite brand. The main thing is that the camera is easy to use, fits in your hand and meets your own requirements.
The photographer had dinner with a very nice married couple. Those, wanting to compliment, said:
— Your photographs are very beautiful. You probably have a very good camera.
The photographer just smiled sweetly in response. After dinner, he approached the hostess and praised her:
— Lunch was very tasty. You probably have very good pots.
Comment on the article "How to choose a SLR camera: 8 steps. Nikon or Canon?"
I'm new to photography, but for me, Canon is ideal. I recently bought a semi-professional camera on Avito for 28t. completely new and exactly what I wanted. Along the way, the same new lenses were found. There is no limit to happiness.
30.11.2017 17:25:59, LivanKelPlease tell me, is it worth taking this camera in this configuration or is it better to take the camera and lens separately?
www.eshop. md/rmd/ru/products/canon/eos_6-00dandef-s18-55_is_ii/blk (30k rubles)
I'm going to buy a Nikon or Canon camera, I'm counting on 23.5 tons of rubles, this is my first purchase, I hope I can handle it.
07/25/2013 11:08:12, VitalyTotal 11 messages .
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Buying a DSLR camera is not an easy procedure for most amateurs. But it is much more difficult to check correctly and not make a mistake when choosing a used DSLR - it requires extensive experience in working with photographic equipment and knowledge of some secrets...!
It’s good if you are buying a new SLR camera and need to check it in a store: in this situation, the main thing is to exclude manufacturing defects and choose the best camera from the available copies (so as not to waste time on returns). It is much more difficult to check a used DSLR when buying second-hand, but it is not so rare that an amateur photographer chooses a used camera due to the relatively high cost of a new professional camera. Or he wants to “try” and if he gets hooked, then get a new and more expensive one.
An SLR camera is distinguished by the presence of mechanical parts in the device. It is the wear and tear of the mechanical parts in a used DSLR that can lead to the rapid failure of a second-hand DSLR camera. I do not advise beginners and amateur photographers to buy a camera with their own hands - choosing a good copy requires quite a lot of experience. I will not dissuade you from buying a used camera: once you have decided, then you need to protect yourself from deception and a low-quality copy.
Who to buy a used DSLR from?
1. First of all, pay attention to who put the used camera up for sale. At a minimum, it is worth distinguishing the following sellers:
Professional photographer.
You should not purchase entry-level DSLRs from such a photographer unless this camera was used as a backup, i.e. practically never used. A professional photographer has a very aggressive mode of using the camera: difficult conditions (snow, rain, high and low temperatures), a large number of frames taken, i.e. long mileage of the camera. Buying a used SLR camera after such conditions of use is not entirely the right decision, since the service life of even a high-level camera is most likely already used.
A keen amateur photographer.
This fraternity should be no less feared, since there is usually no money for an expensive camera with a long service life and a semi-professional DSLR is used both in its tail and in its mane. It is possible that this SLR camera was purchased second-hand, i.e. is in second/third hands. But it happens that there are options when such an enthusiastic amateur photographer tries to keep up with the change in models and regularly changes his camera to a new one that has just been released (instead of improving his skills and purchasing high-quality lenses). This is the option that suits us!
Beginner amateur photographer.
Even if an amateur “stubbornly pressed the shutter button for 1-1.5 years, then the mileage of the used camera will be no more than 10,000 frames. But even in this case, you should be careful to avoid buying an accidentally damaged camera by an inexperienced photographer. It also happens that a used camera is sold almost new, because an amateur photographer has never found one with it. common language and stopped being interested in photography. This is an ideal case for buying a camera secondhand.
2. Check whether this is the first owner of the SLR camera: repeated resale may indicate a partial malfunction of the photographic equipment.
Where to start buying a used DSLR
3. Ask about the reasons for the sale. Finding out the real reason for selling a used camera is almost impossible, but in any case it’s worth looking at the seller’s reaction and his explanations.
4. Warranty card. Ask the seller if there is a warranty card. Perhaps it is not filled out and you, in fact, are buying a camera under warranty. If the warranty period has not expired, this is additional opportunity carry out free repairs in case of malfunctions. Please note whether the camera is gray or has a warranty card from an official service center.
5. Completeness. A careful and prudent owner is immediately evident from the presence of a box, cords, charging, disks with software. The lack of completeness may indicate that the device is stolen and it is up to you to decide whether to buy it or not.
6. Dents on the box. There should be no serious visible damage on the box from impacts/falls - any shocks negatively affect the performance of photographic equipment (the focusing system and the optical system as a whole)... Maybe this is the real reason for the sale...
7. Be careful - water. There should be no signs of water penetration on the box - water ingress can seriously affect the operation of the camera electronics and may not be detected immediately.
How to check the mileage of a SLR camera. Visual inspection when buying second hand.
Some photographic equipment manufacturers make it possible to find out the mileage (number of pictures taken) of a used SLR camera when connected to a computer. Canon's policy here is not on the consumer's side and you can officially find out the mileage only at a Canon service center. But there are third-party programs that can be used to find out the actual mileage. For example, the EOS Info program shows the mileage of Canon DSLRs (unfortunately, not all), but you should be able to focus on a visual assessment of the duration of use of the DSLR camera.
8. Glossy abrasions. The photographer's grip is standard and justified by the convenience and weight of the camera: the right hand rests on the handle, and the left one supports the camera from below so that the fingers rest on the zoom and focus ring. Thus, with active use of the camera on the right from the inside and on the side, as well as on the bottom left at the corner (the camera is pointed away from you with the lens), as well as next to the shutter button, characteristic abrasions form. Since almost all models today are made of matte plastic, the existing abrasions will differ from other parts of the body in their “glossy” quality, and in the initial models the coating is quite thin and with active use of the used SLR camera begins to “peel off”... The camera can be cleaned with a brush and blown through hard-to-reach places , but the “gloss” is almost impossible to remove. It starts to appear somewhere from 10,000 pictures. If the worn, glossy areas are very different from the rest of the body, then a lot of photographs were taken - more than 40 thousand frames! The longer the active use of the digital SLR camera, the larger the area these abrasions occupy.
9. Scratches on the body. Another type of abrasion on a used SLR camera is single scratches. There is a category of amateur photographers who carry a camera with them everywhere, but do not take many photographs. Such a used DSLR will have minor “glossy” abrasions, but there may be individual scratches in various parts of the camera. This is not scary, the main thing is that these scratches do not look like dents or chips.
10. Dents, chips, deep scratches. You should avoid buying a used SLR camera with deep scratches, dents and chips: such a SLR camera has probably survived falls or impacts. If there is such damage, but the appearance of the camera is new, definitely refuse to buy it. Sooner or later, falls or impacts will affect the operation of internal elements!
11. Scratches on the screen. The glass covering the photo viewing screen is very wear-resistant. If there are a lot of small scratches on the glass, it’s not a new camera!
12. Dust. Dust gets clogged into the joints of the body elements, in the viewfinder window, between the body and the buttons, no matter how carefully the equipment is used, which is quite difficult to clean. This is not a reason to refuse the purchase, but Additional Information about the duration of use of the used DSLR.
13. Bayonet – lens mounting location. To determine how often lenses were changed during use, you can look at the bayonet mount - longitudinal scratches remain on it.
14. Dust on the mirror elements. Active use of the camera and the use of interchangeable lenses is indicated by the presence of dust on the mirror elements of the camera. Remove the eyecup and use a cotton swab or dry cloth to remove dust from the viewfinder (outside). Now remove the lens and look through the viewfinder window at some light background or sky (not the sun). If there is dust on the elements of the mirror system, you will see it: small short wavy hairs. Typically, such dust is formed when using the camera for more than 15-20,000 frames.
15. Scratches on the hot shoe. The hot shoe is the attachment point external flash. If it is full of scratches, then this means that you have a copy that was actively used by the photographer - the resource is definitely more than 30,000 images! Most likely, this used DSLR was used by a professional photographer.
16. Belt. I almost forgot about the belt: in the place where it is attached to the iron arms of the camera, the wear of the belt is maximum, and if in this place the belt is worn out until “rags” form, then the mileage of the camera is significant: more than 35,000 pictures. The synthetic material of the belt may be partially worn out: loss of color at the attachment point - in this case, the mileage of the used DSLR is not so long!
How to check a used camera
Checking the functionality of a used SLR camera is similar to checking a new one, described in the article How to test a camera when purchasing. If, in the case of buying a new SLR camera in a store, carrying out the entire verification procedure is essentially not necessary, then when buying a used camera from your own hands, it is worth carrying out the entire check from start to finish.
In addition to what is described in the article above, check:
17. Did you repair it? Check whether the copy offered by the buyer has been repaired! Bolts that hold the body elements together Canon cameras usually black in color and if it was opened for some reason, there will be scratches in the section under the screwdriver on the bolts. If there is dust, carefully remove it with a toothpick or sharpened match and check for scratches.
18. Drowned. In the closing parts of the control unit of the SLR camera (memory card compartment, battery, at the location of the connectors), check for dried smudges or traces of rust. If water got into the camera or it was repaired after a flood, then it will not live long - this is the practice!
19. Memory card antennae. In the memory card compartment, check whether the antennae are damaged (if you are using a CompactFlash-CF card).
20. External flash operation. If there are a lot of scratches on the hot shoe, check the operation of the external flash with this camera. Attach the flash and take a few test shots (at regular intervals, allowing the flash to recharge) with the frame held vertically and the flash pointed to the side. Turn the camera the other way so that the flash is also facing to the side and take another 8-10 vertical shots. If the flash fires unstably, it means the contact between the camera and the shoe is damaged - this is internal damage caused by the severity of the flash and threatens to replace the entire body (in most Canon models the shoe is not separable from the body). It happens that with such damage it is impossible to notice the malfunction outwardly, but it happens that the shoe wobbles a little...
21. Focus. Special attention pay attention to the focusing system. Not only on the correctness of individual measurements, but also on the consistency of correct focusing.
22. Matrix. It is imperative to check the matrix for dead pixels. The camera matrix is the main part of the camera and the quality of the pictures and the performance of your purchase depend on its condition. If it has a large number of dead pixels (more than 20 colored dots on the test image), think about whether it was worth buying this used DSLR!
Whether or not to buy a second-hand SLR camera
Of course, by checking your camera, you will protect yourself as much as possible from poor quality goods and most likely you will not become a victim of deception when purchasing second-hand. But before you part with your money, pay attention to the seller, try to understand why he is selling his used DSLR and whether he sincerely answers your questions. The cost of a second-hand SLR camera can range from 30 to 70% of the cost of a new one, depending on the condition and generation. The price of the gray camera is approximately 10% lower than the officially imported one. If more than 70% of people want a used DSLR or it is more than 3 generations older than existing models on sale (that’s more than 5 years of operation) - think hard about buying a new camera. Read more about the generations and classification of Canon cameras in the article How an amateur can choose a digital SLR camera and lens.
How to choose a good DSLR camera
The DSLR market is saturated. Although there are only five of them producing them large companies, each considers it their duty to release at least two or three new models in different price segments per year. As a result, the consumer has to choose among dozens of SLR camera models. It’s not so easy for a novice amateur photographer to do this, given that the technical parameters of DSLRs are constantly being improved and the functionality is expanding more and more. However, the same few criteria remain important for selection as before. Which ones? Find out from our article.
Matrix size
Photo: prophotos.ru
This is a key parameter for determining the price of the camera and the quality of future photographs (by default, we assume that the photographer’s hands grow from where they need to be). A matrix (sensor), to put it simply, is a special chip with photosensors or pixels. Essentially, it is an analogue of photographic film on which an image is drawn. It is clear that, all other things being equal, the larger the matrix, the better the quality of the picture it will produce. The reference (full-frame) size is 36*24 mm.
Modern DSLRs use mainly two types of sensors.
Cropped matrix
Inexpensive SLR cameras use sensors that are reduced in one proportion or another in relation to full-frame. They can be compared to TVs with different screen diagonals. The proportion by which the full-frame sensor is reduced is called the crop factor. The quality of pictures on a reduced sensor, of course, will be lower than on a full frame, but not critical, since the maximum crop factor, even on the most inexpensive models, does not exceed 1.6, and this is much better than that of most digital cameras. The noise here is less noticeable high ISO than full-frame cameras, but for printing amateur photos this drawback is not significant. At the same time, the cropped sensor is much lighter and much cheaper than the full-size one, which makes the camera more suitable for beginners.
Pros: low cost of the camera and optics, low weight and size of the camera, inexpensive repairs.
Minuses: not the best high quality Pictures.
Full Frame
A full-frame sensor is installed on expensive semi- and professional cameras. Even with a relatively low resolution, it allows you to get realistic colors and high detail. This sensor makes it possible to increase ISO without worrying about possible noise. Compared to a trimmed matrix, the focal length increases significantly and the depth of field decreases - the same Bokeh effect turns out to be more impressive. The disadvantage of full-frame cameras is the deterioration of sharpness and detail at the edges of the frame, due to the characteristics of the optics and light-sensitive cells. The light at the periphery of the frame falls at an angle - hence the slight aberrations.
Full frame cameras are mainly used professional photographers- both because of the cost of cameras and optics for them, and because of the significant size of the models. Carrying a two-kilogram unit is a pleasure below average and makes sense only if it pays off in hard cash.
Pros: high quality pictures.
Minuses: high cost of camera, high cost of optics, large size, expensive repairs.
Permission
Now the “chase for pixels” is in full swing. Manufacturers equip even tiny smartphone cameras with a resolution of 20 megapixels or more. Meanwhile, there is no particular meaning in such characteristics: the quality of the photo depends more on the size of the matrix. If the sensor is tiny, then it is possible to fit a large number of photodiodes on it only by reducing their size or compressing them in space. Both of these methods, as you understand, do not improve the quality of the image. Hence the bewilderment of many users that a modern 16-megapixel device gives worst photos than the old 5-megapixel point-and-shoot camera.
At the same time, it cannot be said that resolution does not matter at all for DSLRs. When printing pictures in a large format or when viewing them on an “advanced” screen (4K TV, for example), 12-14 megapixels may not be enough for a decent result. Therefore, it is better to choose a SLR camera taking into account all possible options for its use.
Mount (bayonet)
Photo: www.dpreview.com
Each manufacturer uses its own lens mount for its cameras. Accordingly, when choosing a DSLR camera, you need to immediately estimate the cost and range of possible optics upgrades. The widest selection, including inexpensive authentic lenses, is offered by Canon and Nikon. Sony and Pentax have slightly more expensive lenses. Leica offers premium optics. However, you can also choose a third-party manufacturer that supports a large number of mounts from different companies. The leading player in this market is the Japanese company Sigma, which produces optics for all of the above brands.
Moisture protection
Having a waterproof case is not the most important parameter. But some amateur photographers love to shoot in difficult conditions - somewhere in the forest, in the rain, in heavy fog... If you are one of those people, then be sure to buy a camera with moisture protection. Typically, such models are equipped with a body made of magnesium alloy. And Pentax products are also complemented by pretty colors.
It should be remembered that such SLR cameras are protected only from splashes. They can work in the rain, but that's it. Do not put such devices under water - this will lead to fatal damage. Also, some users forget that the lens connected to the camera may not be waterproof. In this case, water dripping from the sky is quite capable of getting inside the optics. It will not get into the camera, but the optics will then have to be repaired. Therefore, make sure to purchase a waterproof lens if you want to shoot in difficult weather conditions without any consequences.
Video shooting
Photo: www.fotokomok.ru
This function has two important parameters, which determine the suitability of the camera for good video shooting: resolution and frame rate.
Regular HD is quite enough for shooting videos intended for posting on social networks. But if you want to show your creativity on at least a 24-inch TV, then think about cameras with at least Full HD resolution. Cameras costing under half a million rubles also have a 4K video shooting mode with a resolution of 4096*2160.
The smoothness of the image depends on the frame rate. The minimum parameter suitable for more or less decent videos is 30 frames/s. But this is already yesterday. A good level is 50-60 fps. There are cameras that support up to 124 frames/s, and they are priced accordingly.
However, let's not forget that a DSLR is intended primarily for photography, so its video mode cannot be compared with a professional camera.
Other functionality
Photo: photostart.ru
Manufacturers are trying, as far as possible, to bring SLR cameras closer to conventional digital cameras with their widest functionality. Of course, due to the high energy consumption of “side” functions, not everything can be implemented in such large devices as DSLRs, but many “tricks” have taken root. For example, touch and rotating screens, wi-fi, waterproof housing. The HDR mode has become popular, when two or more frames with different exposure parameters are combined into one - this is convenient when shooting in poor lighting or bright backlight.
Most popular manufacturers
Canon
The Japanese company Canon has been producing cameras since 1937. Currently, more than 20 models of SLR cameras from this company are sold in Russia. The assembly is predominantly Chinese, Taiwanese and Malaysian, although most components are made in Japan. Price range: from 20,000 to 500,000 rubles.
Nikon
Nikon is considered Canon's main competitor in the SLR camera segment (including price). This company was founded in 1917. The production of lenses brought him the most money for a long time. Now it is one of the leaders in the production of SLR cameras. About 15 models are currently imported into the Russian Federation (assembled in Japan, Thailand, China).
Sony
The Japanese company Sony began producing cameras with the advent of the digital era after absorbing the then famous Konica Minolta. Then we started talking about the production of DSLRs. At first, they were considered the “poor cousins” in the global market for such cameras. However, the latest models (there are only four of them on the Russian market) are firmly among the top best - both in terms of workmanship, innovation and functionality.
Pentax
The history of Pentax cameras began in 1952. Now the manufacturer is owned by Ricoh. In terms of range and market share of SLR cameras, Pentax is inferior to the Big Three; 7 models are currently presented in Russia. And they are more likely to belong to premium technology.
Hello dear readers of the site website. This is the first article on this site and it will be devoted to how to choose a DSLR camera. It’s no secret to many that photography has become deeply embedded in our lives compared to past times, when there was no digital cameras and there were only 36 frames in the film. Now since the advent social networks and various services for publishing photos and videos such as Instagram and Youtube, the popularity of photos has increased significantly! Well, photography has become a very popular activity and activity over the past couple of years. Nowadays, probably every 15-year-old girl wants to become a professional photographer. Yes, now showing off a DSLR on your neck has become cooler than showing off an iPhone in your hands. I hope this popularity will pass someday, but that’s another topic. Let's get to the point.
Where to start choosing a DSLR?
When choosing a SLR camera, of course, you should first of all think about what purposes you need it for and what amount of money you are counting on. Since choosing a SLR camera is vastly different from choosing a regular digital point-and-shoot camera. And there are many options: be it professional photography for money, or just a standard camera for family photos, for show-off and art in the end. Of course, you need to take into account your budget not only at the time of purchase, but also for further upgrades in the future. If with a digital camera everything is simple - you buy it and don’t think about anything else, then with the choice of a DSLR everything is somewhat more complicated. If you become very interested in photography, you will want other lenses, tripods, flashes, and then you look at your photo studio.
Let's start a little with theory so that it is clear how to choose and why there is such a difference in prices. Understanding the technical aspects will give you an advantage when choosing a DSLR camera.
SLR camera matrix
Mirrors are divided into two types: with full frame sensor
And cropped.
Full frame- have a sensor equivalent to 35mm film with dimensions of 36 x 24 mm. This matrix is installed in the best and most expensive cameras. It has minimal noise when setting high ISO values, better picture detail and full frame coverage. The smaller the matrix, the potentially worse the image quality and the greater the depth of field of the image.
Cropped- slightly smaller than a full-frame sensor or in other words a “cut-down sensor” with dimensions of 22.3 x 14.9 mm - they have less frame coverage (that is, to shoot what a full-frame camera can capture, you need to step back almost twice as far ), noise is much more pronounced at high ISO values (which helps to shoot when there is insufficient natural light), the quality is slightly worse, but they are 5 times cheaper than full-frame DSLRs. You can read more about the comparison of these types of sensors in the article “why a full-frame sensor is better than a cropped one.”
The harsh reality is that for many, the megapixel count is an important factor when choosing a DSLR camera - all of which is influenced by marketers. This is not entirely correct. To print a photo on A3 size paper, 10 megapixels are enough. The bottom line is that with the same matrix size and an increase in the number of megapixels, their size decreases, because more must be placed on the same matrix size. And with smaller pixel sizes, high ISO images become noisier. Therefore, you should not chase the number of megapixels. You can read more about ISO in the article “What is ISO and why is it needed”
Cameras with a full-frame matrix are chosen mainly by professional photographers who are engaged in commercial photography and shoot for glossy magazines, as they fully reveal all the capabilities of the camera when working with high-quality and expensive lenses. Well, cropped matrices are several times cheaper, so they are available to mere mortals. For example, the cheapest full-frame DSLR that I know costs $2000, and the cropped one costs $400, do you feel the difference? So, we have looked at the main criterion for choosing a professional SLR camera, which directly affects the quality of the photo. All other criteria relate more to ergonomics and ease of use.
Ease of use of the camera
All SLR cameras are quite large and heavy compared to conventional digital cameras, this is especially true for full-frame cameras, the weight of which can be 3 times more than cropped cameras. Therefore, you need to choose a convenient camera that you will be comfortable using. Many people think that they know how to choose a DSLR camera, but they don’t even pay attention to ergonomics, they only look at the number of megapixels.
In the picture below you see two semi-professional cameras that differ in ergonomics but are almost identical in characteristics. On the left is a small and lightweight camera that is suitable for many novice photographers, but it has a small handle and it will be more convenient for girls with small hands to hold than large ones by male hands. On the right is a model with a wide handle, which will be convenient for people with large hands - for men this model of camera is much more comfortable to hold in their hands. Plus, on the right side of the DSLR there is an LED screen on top that displays basic information on the camera settings. Choosing a convenient DSLR will help your hands not get tired during a photo shoot.
- Shooting Full HD video (now all cameras, even the cheapest ones, have this option)
- Touch or rotating screen (allows you to conveniently shoot from different angles, from the ground or overhead)
- Continuous shooting speed (in budget models this is approximately 3 frames per second, in more expensive ones 6-8 frames / s - important for shooting sports events)
- Sensor under the viewfinder (turns off the camera's display to save battery while you're shooting through the viewfinder)
- More focus points (helps you focus on your subject better)
- The number of dots in the camera display (responsible for the detail of the displayed images)
- High ISO values (camera sensitivity - the higher the value, the darker conditions you can shoot without flash)
- Type of viewfinder (pentaprism or penta-reflector, and frame coverage angle)
What parameters should you use to choose a camera?
The main criteria for choosing a SLR camera are, of course, the type of matrix and the price of the SLR. After all, the quality of the photo depends on the type of matrix. Price is, of course, the second factor that will limit your choice. If you have decided which matrix you need, then next you should choose the type of viewfinder. There are several types of viewfinder: Pentaprism and Pentamirror. This is a pentaprism the best choice since it gives greater frame coverage and magnification, which is on average 95%. This type of viewfinder is brighter and the subject being photographed is seen better. With the Pentamirror everything is slightly worse: the magnification is 80% and it is a little darker. Using it is like looking at the street through a tunnel. You shouldn’t chase the number of megapixels; it’s better to take a camera with fewer megapixels, because apart from affecting the size of the photo, they will degrade the quality. Further criteria for choosing a camera include the presence of a rotating screen and continuous shooting speed, which will help you when shooting sporting events or any dynamic scene.
Photo quality
Basically, the photo quality of SLR cameras with a price range from $400 to $900 is the same. So if you think that if you buy a slightly more expensive camera you will get much better quality photos, then you are mistaken. The type of matrix used on such cameras is the same everywhere, it only differs by +- 2-3 megapixels, which only affects the size of the photo in pixels. Otherwise, the overpayment is for ergonomics, quality of materials and additional camera functions that were listed above. Best quality pictures will only be available in full-frame cameras.
Choosing a Camera Lens
The quality of the image depends on the quality of the lens, the beauty of the image is the absence of distortion, the absence of chromatic aberrations, shallow depth of field, zoom and ease of use. When choosing a lens, you should pay attention to the lens aperture, the presence of a USM focusing motor, focal length, as well as the presence of an image stabilizer. You can read more about lenses in the article “how to choose a lens for a SLR camera.”
Of course, everything depends on the budget, but I would advise you to buy a camera at a reasonable price and a more expensive lens than to choose an expensive camera and a very cheap and bad lens. In the first case, the photo quality will be better due to sharp and fast lens for example such as Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM($300) with fixed focal length(which is ideal for portraits), or a zoom lens Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8($300), it is suitable for both landscapes and portraits.
Which brand of camera is better to choose?
You will probably ask what is better to buy CANON or NIKON - there is no definite answer to this question, just as in principle there is no answer to the question “which company is better to choose a camera.” Of course, in the photographic equipment market, these are two leaders who can offer any camera model at the same price, and if a competitor does something new, the second company will quickly release a new product with the same functions and capabilities. I think comparing them is the same as saying which is better than Mercedes or BMW, Nike or Adidas. The difference between CANON and NIKON is mainly in ergonomics and ease of operation. You should come to the store where they are sold, take two similar models from different companies and just hold them in your hands, try to take a couple of shots, tinker with the settings and only then will you understand what you like best.
conclusions
If we choose a SLR camera for beginners, as a standard camera for family photos of your feast with 70-year-old grandmothers, or as you grill kebabs in the country and don’t even think about buying a few more lenses, but take photographs only in auto mode - then it’s worth taking a budget SLR for beginners with the Kit lens that comes in the kit and don’t think about anything else. For example Canon EOS 1100D Kit 18-55 or Nikon D3100 18-55VR Kit
If you are going to get involved in photography for yourself and shoot in full manual mode and are thinking about the question “Which camera to choose for an amateur?”, then you should first buy a semi-professional DSLR and I advise you to categorically refuse to buy the kit lens that is offered in the kit Kit 18-55. If you want to shoot beautiful portraits with beautiful blurred background and try other different genres, then it just isn’t right for you! Of course there are craftsmen who take pictures beautiful photos and for him, but there are only a few such people and such photos mainly save good processing in photo editors, you can’t do without it now. When I bought my first DSLR, I immediately crossed out the purchase of a Kit lens (Kit 18-55) since it was of zero use, in the end I bought a separate lens with good aperture (50mm 1.8) and a separate camera (Carcass, BODY)
Well, you can choose any camera itself, from a budget model for $400 to models for enthusiasts for $800, it all depends on your needs in terms of ease of use and the presence of various functions and innovations.
Well, in a nutshell, about those who want to engage in professional photography, shoot weddings, studio photos for glossy magazines, or stock photography for photo banks. But they don’t know which professional camera is better to choose, then you definitely need to buy a professional full-frame SLR camera such as Canon EOS 6D($2000) or Canon EOS 5D Mark($4000) their prices are of course off the charts, but it’s worth it. Yes, and this is a necessary thing when working at a professional level when you need impeccable quality for printing photographs on posters the size of the floor of a building or for glossy magazines. The difference between these models is not significant, so choosing will not be difficult.
Well, now you have learned how to choose the right SLR camera, so feel free to go shopping. Leave your questions in the comments, I will try to answer them and add to the article.
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